When the first Barrafina opened back in 2007 on Frith Street in Soho, it really was a landmark moment for London. It changed the game on many levels, not only introducing many of us to true, authentic Spanish tapas for the first time, but also to the concept of no bookings, open kitchens and queues for tables. Some of those things remain divisive, but the hype was real for a reason – Barrafina was that good. The fact that the queues remain is a testament to Barrafina’s quality – it sits at the heart of the Hart Bros restaurant empire, and continues to be the leading light for Spanish food in the UK.

Barrafina Coal Drops Yard is the fourth Barrafina restaurant to open in London, and is very much a headline appointment for the Coal Drops Yard development at Kings Cross. With thirty-four covers it’s the biggest Barrafina yet and delivers something the others cannot – the joy of brilliant tapas and cold Cava in glorious sunshine. The seating is all at the counter, so you can get up close and personal with the chefs; watching the food being cooked and chatting with the people preparing it is still a huge part of Barrafina’s DNA – and long may it continue.

Leading the line at Coal Drops Yard is Barcelona-born Angel Zapata Martin, Barrafina’s executive chef. Coal Drops Yard is the first new opening Angel has presided over (the other three were opened by previous executive chef Nieves Barragan Mohacho) and as such, there’s a distinctly Catalonian flair to the menu. Delicious new dishes like salt cod a la Catalana, Sepia a la bruta (cuttlefish stew) and the absolutely sensational Calamar and butifarra bun – which stuffs Catalan sausage and squid inside a soft white mollete bun with a chimichurri all i oli – are welcome additions. Thankfully though, Barrafina stays true to its roots, and there are plenty of classic dishes on the menu too, including a nice selection of cold meats, various tortillas and the famous pan con tomate that launched many a queue in Soho.

The drinks menu is equally impressive. Alongside a well curated wine list, Barrafina keeps some seriously good sherry and Cava behind the counter, and the staff are incredibly knowledgeable when it comes to helping you choose something that is to your tastes.