Drew Snaith
Drew Snaith
With years of experience working in a number of the UK’s top fine dining restaurants behind him, Drew Snaith’s focus now lies in cooking flavour-led food which doesn’t take itself too seriously. At his Hackney restaurant SESTA, his ever-changing playful menu showcases both immense skill and an ability to balance quality cookery with fun.
Whilst his path into the industry formally began when he enrolled at catering college in Sheffield aged sixteen, the truth is that Drew Snaith had set his heart on becoming a chef at an even earlier age. He points to making rock cakes with his grandmother as one of his earliest food memories, and even as a child was certain that he was destined for a career in cookery.
Drew’s first stint in a professional kitchen came whilst training in Sheffield, working under chef John Parsons, who taught him many of the basics and went on to become somewhat of a mentor to him. Spending more time at the restaurant than at catering college, Drew soon realised he was ready to throw himself head first into the industry and so began a period of over ten years which saw him work in all manner of different kitchens. Time spent at the likes of Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons under Gary Jones, Kitchen Table, and The Devonshire Arms under Steve Smith ensured that Drew quickly became accustomed to the expectations of a fine dining kitchen, but at the same time made him realise that the world of Michelin stars wasn’t really for him.
Between working at restaurants including Brunswick House, The Conduit (his first head chef position) and Kitty Fishers, Drew also took on some consultancy work at Mare Street Market and later at Acme Fire Cult. It was post-pandemic however, as head chef at Pidgin in Hackney, when Drew admits he really began to come into his own and build a name for himself. Challenged with writing a new tasting menu every week, his refined yet playful and flavour-driven style of food came to the forefront and saw him become Pidgin’s longest standing head chef. It felt appropriate therefore, that when the restaurant closed its doors in 2024, he and former Pidgin general manager Hannah Kowalski decided to take on the space and open their very own concept, SESTA.
Drew describes his menu at SESTA as a combination of seriousness and silliness – food that’s grounded in technique but plated simply and cooked with plenty of emotion. What’s most important for him is that people can get stuck in and enjoy themselves at SESTA whilst also appreciating the work that’s gone into every dish, and you’d be hard pushed not to when eating Drew’s food.
Which chef has been the biggest inspiration to you throughout the years?
'As my first head chef, John Parsons didn’t just show me the ropes as a kid, he was also very influential on me outside of the kitchen. I’d say he taught me how to be a good person and we’re still incredibly close. And then at Le Manoir, I worked alongside Luke Selby, who was only a demi at the time but he carried me through some very difficult times in that kitchen. I actually think that without him, I may not still be cooking today. He came into SESTA when it was newly opened, and seeing him lick the plate clean genuinely made me feel quite emotional.'
What’s the most memorable meal you’ve ever had?
'When I was in Vienna, I got to eat at Mraz & Sohn and it was absolutely amazing. I remember thinking it was the first proper fine dining restaurant I’d been to that wasn’t embarrassed to take the piss out of itself a bit. It felt like a bit of a 'fuck you’ to fine dining but still hit on every single dish. Towards the end of the meal, we got this incredible little glazed pastry with our coffees and I turned to my friend and said ‘that’s one of the best mouthfuls I’ve ever eaten’. They must have heard me because shortly after, another one arrived at the table!'
Have you got a favourite cookbook?
'I think it would have to be On Vegetables by Jeremy Fox. That’s a book that really resonates with me as there’s a playfulness to everything he does. It was also one of the first cookbooks that I read which was completely vegetarian and it’s actually influenced how I now approach vegetables. I’ve literally got a copy of it in my bag right now.'
What’s the best piece of advice you’ve received?
'Just after I got my first head chef job, I spoke to John Parsons and he told me to stop worrying about everything so much and just let it flow and that’s what I’ve really leant into. For me, cookery is now like playing jazz – you should never worry too much about the rules.'
What’s your favourite restaurant in London?
'In terms of the place that I go back to again and again, I’d say 40 Maltby Street. It’s so impressive what they do out of such a tiny little kitchen and it just never misses. There’s never a star, stand-out dish because everything is so good. You have to go with at least four people though, so you can order the entire menu!'
And any guilty pleasures?
'Nope - I don’t think anyone should feel guilty about pleasure, that’s one of the best parts of life! Why should you feel embarrassed about it?'
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