George Farrugia
George Farrugia
After swapping a law degree for a career in the kitchen, George Farrugia's flavour-driven, classically rooted cooking has made him one of the UK's rising culinary stars.
It's easy to assume that, to become a top chef, you have to throw yourself into the world of professional cooking from the age of sixteen. So many chefs talk about how they knew they were destined for a life of pan-rattling the second they could hold a knife and fork, while others fall in love with the high-pressure environment after years of boredom in the classroom. But if someone has the talent, passion and dedication to make a name for themselves in the world of cheffing, then it doesn’t matter if they come to the profession a few years later than everyone else. George Farrugia is a perfect example.
Growing up in Manchester, George’s family originally came from Cyprus, so food was always a big part of his life. However, it wasn’t until after he’d done a law degree at university that he seriously considered becoming a chef. ‘It wasn’t until I’d graduated and started to understand the logistics of working in law that I realised it wasn’t for me,’ he says. ‘Luckily a family friend was opening a Greek restaurant in Manchester, so I managed to get a job there to see what it was like to cook professionally.’
The discipline of the kitchen, the attention to detail that went into serving each dish and the rush of service meant George instantly caught the bug and found his calling. After six months of learning the basics (he hadn’t been to catering college, after all), he moved onto a fine dining restaurant called Room and started gaining an appreciation for more refined, complex cooking.
‘I always had an interest in how certain foods were cooked from watching chefs on TV and stuff, but to be a part of it was amazing. I didn’t go to catering college or anything, but I read as many books on food as I could find and had this real eagerness to learn as much as possible.’
After Room, George headed for London after a colleague managed to land him a trial shift at Pierre Koffmann’s eponymous restaurant at The Berkeley. ‘Working there was a huge wakeup call and the level of cooking jumped so much from what I was used to in Manchester. The depth of flavour was key to everything, and I learnt so much from my time there.’
It was at Koffmann’s that George met Eric Chavot, who would have the biggest influence on his cooking style. ‘I really enjoyed his style of food,’ says George. ‘Eric was a head chef for Koffmann in the past, so they had that same classical background, but he had a lightness to his food that I’d never really seen before. I really enjoyed my time with him.’
George’s time as sous chef at Eric’s Brasserie Chavot saw the team gain a Michelin star and the restaurant quickly became one of the most popular in London. Rather than using this accolade as a stepping stone to becoming a head chef as quickly as possible, however, George stayed with Eric for the next four years, learning as much as possible from him and developing his own style. ‘Because I started cheffing quite late, I wanted to make sure my base was solid,’ says George. ‘That’s why I went to Koffmann’s in London, to get that classical training under my belt, and then after that Chavot took a more modern approach, so it was a great mix of experiences to have.’
After Brasserie Chavot, George headed up the kitchen at the Chelsea Arts Club for a while, before working with Eric Chavot once more as the head chef at Bob Bob Ricard. But it wasn’t until he arrived at Fenchurch Sky Garden that he really started to let his own style of cooking shine through on the menu. ‘Fenchurch was my food and my palate, but applying all the bases I’d gained over the years. To sum it up, I’d say my style is led by seasonal British ingredients but with Mediterranean flavours.’
During his tenure at Fenchurch, George also appeared in the 2020 series of Great British Menu, confirming his reputation for one of the UK’s rising culinary stars. Now at Noizé, a firm favourite in the heart of London which serves comforting, rustic classical dishes that change regularly, George's creativity and passion are at their very best.
Three things you should know
George has a keen interest in game cookery and has been shooting and hunting with his father since childhood.
More recently, George has been exploring his Cypriot roots, incorporating ingredients from the island into his cooking.
George doesn't get back up to Manchester as much as he'd like to, but he's always championing the city's food scene.
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