Steven Smith may be trend-averse but he is certainly not risk-averse. His cuisine embraces tradition without being consumed by it.
While many chefs unashamedly pilfer ideas from each other, Steven Smith says he is keen to pave his own path ('many chefs in the North West have tried to be the next Nigel Haworth or Paul Heathcote and have failed'). His quest for originality has proved unremittingly successful; garnering a top 50 rating in the Good Food Guide for his Ribble Valley restaurant The Freemasons at Wiswell.
After training at Blackburn College, Steven worked at many of the region’s best restaurants before opening Freemasons in 2009 – immediately drawing praise from customers for his open and energetic management style. The restaurant became regarded as one of the North West’s best ever restaurants and Steven as one of its brightest culinary talents.
Though his North West upbringing is tangible in his distinct lack of pretension, the chef himself is keen to stress that he takes influence from much further afield. Produce is sourced according to quality – from France or Italy if need be – while Japanese cuisine is also a big influence on the chef.
Steven believes in constant evolution; menu items are governed by the seasons and returning dishes are tweaked and refined to eschew any sense of stagnation. Savoury options at Freemasons tended to pair locally-sourced proteins with some more worldly accompaniments – think, Nidderdale lamb with crispy belly and kofta, miso aubergine, charred lettuce, mint and yoghurt. Desserts were never short of exquisite – brilliantly creative and comely.
During his time at the restaurant, Steven also launched Mr Smith's, a ten-cover communal chef's table experience. After fifteen years as chef-patron, in summer 2024 Steven left the restaurant. At the time, he said he was actively looking to launch a new venture in the area.