Bergamot oranges are a fragrant, knobbly citrus from southern Italy, closely related to the sour orange. Essential oil made from their peel is an incredibly popular additive to perfume, but they are perhaps most familiar as the fruit that gives Earl Grey its distinctively floral fragrance. Rather confusingly, the name ‘bergamot’ is also sometimes used for citrus limetta, also known as ‘sweet lime’ or ‘sweet lemon’. C. limetta is, as the name ‘sweet lime’ suggests, sweet, unlike the sour and bitter true bergamot, or Citrus bergamia.

Most bergamot oranges are grown in Calabria, Italy, which is also the namesake of the Calabrian chilli. Despite their name, the flesh isn’t eaten as with an orange. Instead, they are used for their zest and juice, more like a lemon or lime. The flavour of a bergamot is strong – marmalade made from just bergamot peels is likely to be a bit overwhelming – but when tempered with other citrus, their heady fragrance is unparalleled.

Bergamot oranges’ delightful fragrance make them a popular choice in creams and ice cream. Lorna McNee infuses bergamot juice into a gel, to be served with her intricate honey and citrus dessert, while Jonny Lake uses bergamot alongside other citrus in a citrus-infused butter, which he serves with poached turbot. Ruth Hansom’s wonderfully named ‘Fig and its leaf with bergamot, honey and Earl Grey’ goes for a triple punch of bergamot, using it in her curd, sablé and gel.