Google Northumberland or a pick up a postcard on your travels and you may well be greeted by the same image: a sweeping sandy beach, edged by grassy dunes and overlooked by the imposing fortress of Bamburgh Castle. It's arguably Northumberland's most iconic image, and though it might only be a single glimpse of a varied county, it’s one which sums up its appeal to the thousands of holidaymakers who flock there every year. Its rugged coastline, gorgeous countryside and dozens of historic castles (including Alnwick, known partly for its starring role as Hogwarts in the first two Harry Potter films) have long made Northumberland a magnet for those looking to get away from it all, but it's only in recent years that its food scene has exploded, its culinary potential now matching that of its landscape and history.

With Scottish produce to the north, vibrant Newcastle to the south and Cumbrian fine dining to the west, Northumberland's neighbours are home to strong food identities, and it's traditionally been harder to define Northumberland’s own character. Locals, though, know the people, places and produce to seek out, from beloved makers like Gilchesters flour and Doddington Dairy ice cream to the fresh kippers and oysters caught off its east coast. And over the last few years, as a clutch of new restaurant openings have attracted attention from around the country, word about Northumberland food and drink has started to spread.

Wander through the streets of Craster and – if you don't smell them first – you’ll soon spot the white plumes of smoke funnelling out of the Robson Smokehouse, home to the world-renowned Craster kipper. The smoked herrings were cured by the Craster family there from 1865 until 1906, when the smokehouse was bought by James Robson, giving rise to L Robson and Sons, which is still thriving today. One hundred and twenty years on, the Robsons are sticking close to tradition, resisting mass production techniques which have become mainstream. Their family heritage has passed through four generations so far – today, the business is headed up by Neil Robson, though his daughter Olivia is learning the ropes. 

The kippers have earned a reputation as some of the finest in Britain, becoming a beloved Northumbrian export. Every day, herrings are split (a task once taken on by the herring girls of the 1900s, but now completed by machine), brined in salt and water and hung in cavernous smokehouses, with fires underneath (made with whitewood shavings and oak sawdust) smouldering for twelve to sixteen hours, until the fish turn a distinctive golden-brown hue. Locals tuck into them at breakfast, with thickly-cut, generously-buttered brown bread, or as part of a picnic on the rocky coast, and they appear on menus around Northumberland and beyond, elevated by some of the country's top chefs, (including Kenny Atkinson, who used them in a Craster fish pie on Great British Menu). Though they can be poached or oven-grilled, barbecuing them is a nod to tradition and creates a wonderfully smoky brunch. Enjoy them with eggs, a squeeze of lemon juice and toast, or in a toastie with sharp cheddar cheese.

The tiny tidal Holy Island of Lindisfarne is a mile off the Northumbrian coast, its skyline dominated by the castle which perches at its highest point. It may be petite in stature, measuring just three miles by one and a half, but it's packed with pubs, cafés, galleries and shops, as well as its ancient priory. It's also home to Lindisfarne oysters, which are reared in the same place that oysters beds were first introduced by the Monks of Lindisfarne, who bought an oyster-filled boat from a Scotsman for 100 shillings in 1831.

The island's most famous export, though, is Lindisfarne Mead, a fortified wine which is made exclusively at St Aidan’s Winery, in the centre of the village. Every year, its showroom attracts over 200,000 visitors from around the world to sample the unique, honeyed drink. It's made with honey, herbs, water from the island's artesian well and fine spirits, but it's the addition of white grapes in its fermentation that sets it apart. It's an ancient Roman method, paying homage to the island's history; in 55BC, the Romans, under Julius Caesar, invaded Lindisfarne, bringing their food and culture along with them. Historians say a centenarian, Pollio Romulus, later wrote to Caesar to attribute his longevity to his regular consumption of ‘methegli’, or spiced mead. Today, it's often enjoyed chilled with ice, or heated as a mulled drink. 

Northumberland might be landlocked on three of its four borders, but a huge part of its food landscape centres around the coast, where chefs cater for local seaside communities, as well as holidaying tourists. Some of the county's most popular restaurants are a stone's throw from the sea, including the Potted Lobster at Bamburgh, The Whittling House in Alnmouth, The Old Boat House in Amble and local institution Coastline in Blyth. A family-run chippy, it started frying in 2002, attracting both travelling visitors and award wins ever since. Domenico Gregorio, the man behind the fryers, puts their success down to their attention to detail; a sign at the restaurant tells customers which potatoes are on that day, its mushy peas are home-made, there's a gluten-free menu, lighter options like bass and samphire and a real focus on the environment (from fish sourcing to local beach cleans). Their food miles are low (they recently moved their milk supplier from forty miles away to just ten), and they employ dozens of people across Coastline and their ice cream business Ciccarelli Gelateria.

‘It just comes down to quality really,’ Domenico says, ‘and sourcing the ingredients fresh. I’m selling food for the love, I’m not doing it for money. I have had twenty years in this job, it’s all about passionate, passionate quality. That’s what goes through the whole business. We are just keen to bring it closer, more local to us and to use local people. We have really put the heart and soul into Blyth South beach, we are really passionate about what we try and do.’

Of course, not all of Northumberland's culinary heft hinges on its coastline. There's fantastic cooking happening across its villages and towns, the area's profile being elevated by talented, creative chefs who are using the best Northumbrian produce. There's the likes of the Rat Inn in Anick, Eleven in Ponteland and Hjem (pronounced Yem) in Wall, which earned its (and Northumberland's) first Michelin star in 2021. Meaning 'home' in both multiple Scandinavian languages and Northumbrian dialect, its head chef Alex Nietosvuori hails from Sweden and has worked at some of Scandinavia's most celebrated restaurants. His menu is centred around ingredients sourced from the surrounding farms and gardens, cooked with Scandinavian precision and techniques. 

In 2022, the county's Michelin tally was bolstered by Pine at East Wallhouses, in the heart of Hadrian's Wall county, a farm-to-fork inspired restaurant set in a renovated cow barn, which is run by Cal Byerley and Siân Buchan. In 2023, their award was joined by a green star, recognising the pair's commitment to their surroundings – Cal draws directly from the Northumbrian larder in his menus, plucking fresh ingredients from the kitchen garden, leading the team on foraging missions and working with small producers and farmers. And if anyone knows the area's potential, it's Cal – he grew up at the neighbouring farm (his family still lives nearby) and, after working at some of the country's best restaurants, including Rogan and Co and Forest Side, returned to Northumberland. It was the likes of Hjem, he says, that inspired him to set up there. 'A few years before it didn't feel like the area was ready for that style of dining,' he says, 'but it had changed.' The brilliant produce of Northumberland – including its venison and hill lamb – as well as its many charming country pubs, makes it a wonderful place to be a chef, he says.

Britain is home to plenty of traditional comfort dishes, and the North East is no exception, with recipes for everything from stotties and pease pudding to Newcastle pudding passed down from generation to generation. The likes of Northumbrian ham broth, packed with root vegetables, leeks, lentils and split peas, and Alnwick stew, layers of gammon, onions and potato, have their roots in Northumberland. Singing hinnies, sweet griddle cakes, are also a local favourite. Made with baking powder, flour, butter, currants, salt and milk, the recipe is not dissimilar to that of Welsh cakes, the main different being that Welsh cakes are sweetened with sugar, where singing hinnies rely on their dried fruit for sweetness. The singing refers to the sizzling of the fat in the dough as it's cooked (as if the cake is singing), while hinny is a local term of endearment. They're usually served warm, with a smearing of butter or a sprinkling of sugar. 

From centuries-old traditions to innovative chefs, there's loads of brilliant food to enjoy in Northumberland. When you plan your next mooch on its windswept beaches or poke around a crumbling castle, don’t overlook its fantastic food scene, which is finally getting the recognition it deserves.