Sure, it might not be packaged in a fancy clip-top jar or come adorned with herbs, nuts or fruit, but Waitrose’s bog-standard offering has everything you could want from a classic pâté. Smooth, uniform and rich, it’s spruced up with a dash of port and Cognac, which comes through (subtly) in the aftertaste. There’s a definite liver flavour (with that pleasingly metallic tang), but it’s one of the mildest we tasted, making it perfect for those who usually avoid offal like the plague.

Aldi always seems to go all-out for Christmas, and their upmarket pâté (complete with reusable jar and herby crust) certainly impressed. Rather than being puréed into a smooth paste, it’s left with a rougher, more rustic texture, which is still spreadable but with more bite to it. The herbs on top contrast nicely with the rich liver below, and make it a little more presentable than the plain all-pâté packs.

At first Findlater’s looks a little foreboding, with its oxidised grey top and plastic pot, but the first taste of this handmade Scottish award-winning pâté will erase all doubts. It’s been blended to a butter-like consistency, with a strong hum of chicken livers given a boost thanks to the welcome glugs of brandy and port, which add a wonderful sweet finish. It might be a little more expensive than the others, but the taste was far and away the best we tried all day.