If ever there was an opportunity to create a full-on food and wine matching menu, then Christmas is it. And not because you’ll always get the perfect pairings – have you seen a more clashing set of flavours on one plate than a turkey Christmas lunch? But because people want to have a good time; and they’ll always push the boat out at Christmas.

So, what to drink? Let’s start with the Christmas aperitif. Let’s face it, a decent fizz will carry you through the entire pre-meal celebrations, from Christmas Eve to Boxing Day. There’s always Champagne, of course, though most of us these days are looking for a bit more bang for their buck, but instead of turning to usual suspects Prosecco and Cava, think regional French fizz, such as Blanquette de Limoux. It’s made using what is known as the traditional method – like Champagne, and according to legend, it’s the world’s first ever sparkling wine, dating back to 1531. As well as getting you in the party mood, it’s a breeze with classic Christmas nibbles. Try zesty, fresh, and toasty Martial Richard Blanquette de Limoux, made from native Limoux grape, Mauzac.

And yes, there is always G&T. Gin has never been so popular, with artisanal brands made with intriguing botanicals packaged in pretty bottles from all over the country, and beyond. But I prefer something more unique, and festive – cue white port. Unlike the Portuguese, who drink it in the summer by the gallon over ice with tonic water, garnished with a sprig of mint, I like white port and tonic for Christmas, garnished with a Christmassy slice of orange. White port is one of Portugal’s best-kept secrets, a fortified wine made with white grapes such as Malvasia Fina, Rabigato and Viosinho. It has a similar sweetness to gin, but with a much lower alcohol content, coming it at around 20% abv, offering guests a more sensible start to the festivities. Try four-year-old, intensely fruity Quevedo White Port (19.5% abv), as aromatic as it is sweet.

On to the starters, and there are three wine roads you can take here. The first is to choose something to go with enduring festive starter of smoked salmon. The second is to find a match for charcuterie, which has become an equally popular alternative for kicking off Christmas lunch. Or lastly, so we don’t abandon the increasingly vocal plant-based crowd, you can pick something that also sits happily with both a celeriac, hazelnut and truffle soup, say, or a mushroom-packed vegan terrine, and the ubiquitous nut roast for the main.

For those taking the smoked salmon route, there are several wine options (a little tip: choose a mild smoked salmon to be more wine-friendly), from an aromatic Alsace or German Riesling to a Grüner Veltliner, Austria’s fruity flagship grape, where you should aim for one with peppery freshness. And remember, fizz always works with smoked salmon (including that Blanquette de Limoux). But if you want to get creative on the pairing front, why not try a New Zealand Pinot Gris? It’s a versatile wine, with a lovely texture, plus a hint of spiciness, and a sweetness that is generally balanced by the acidity, which will serve the salmon well - the plant-based options, too, come to that. Try Rod Easthope Pinot Gris from Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, which pulls off intense, tropical fruit flavours combined with a vibrant acidity to keep things fresh.