A flurry of modern Parisian-inspired brasseries have put French food in the spotlight in the UK in a new way. We look at some of the classic bistro dishes from which chefs are drawing inspiration.
A flurry of modern Parisian-inspired brasseries have put French food in the spotlight in the UK in a new way. We look at some of the classic bistro dishes from which chefs are drawing inspiration.
French chefs began laying culinary foundations for the rest of the world centuries ago, shaping an enduring respect for food and eating and a cuisine epitomised by rich flavours, technique and quality ingredients. And though we may often associate French cuisine with refined restaurants, its bustling brasseries and laid-back bistros showcase French cooking through a more relaxed lens, serving traditional, hearty recipes. It’s these places that are influencing a wave of new restaurants across the UK, where French recipes are at the roots of modern interpretations using British ingredients.
In the last year, Bistro Freddie in Shoreditch, Jackson Boxer's Henri in Covent Garden, Ploussard in Clapham Junction and Marceline in Canary Wharf have all opened their doors, with more on the horizon, including Mignonette in Richmond. French bistro Bavette, which only arrived in Leeds in March, has already been crowned Britain’s Best Local Restaurant 2024 by the Good Food Guide, while a flurry of new French cookbooks mean it's fair to say we are loving bistro culture. So if you’ve eaten at one lately or just fancy bringing French flair into your kitchen, the recipes below are a fantastic place to start.
Few dishes are more synonymous with French bistro cooking than sweet, savoury and deeply comforting French onion soup. The secret, as you'll see in this version from Martin Wishart, is getting a good colour on the onions in the first stage of cooking, so they develop a full-bodied flavour – be prepared for patient stirring. Fancy it with a twist? Our take adds the salty umami flavour of miso and the warmth of hot honey.
Henry Harris led the kitchen at iconic London bistro Racine for thirteen years until its closure in 2015. He reopened its successor, Bouchon Racine, in 2022, where he serves a menu of classic French dishes. That includes his rabbit with mustard sauce and bacon, a mainstay in an otherwise regularly changing line-up. He recommends tracking down good quality Dijon mustard and to whisk it in just before serving to hold onto the vibrant flavour.
Slow-cooked and brimming with meaty flavour, cassoulet takes its name from the cassole that it's traditionally cooked in. Made with white beans and various meats, usually Toulouse sausage, duck and pork, cassoulet – which originates from in the south of France – is a dish which epitomises the best of French cuisine. This take from the Galvin brothers is a must-try, though if you’re after a vegetarian version, you can try our fennel and borlotti bean number.
Another quintessential French bistro dish, steak frites is quick and easy and only relies on you getting your hands on good quality meat. This version from Bryan Webb uses both black and white peppercorns and takes just twenty minutes. Make sure to get your hands on good quality meat and serve with your favourites – though home-made chips and a crisp green salad are ideal.
The perfect dinner on cosy nights in, coq au vin is a one-pot number that’s simple to prepare. It’s essentially cockerel (our version uses chicken) simmered in red wine, creating a glossy, rich sauce, with bacon lardons, mushrooms and onions. Serve with hunks of bread or mash.
The French take on a toasted ham and cheese sandwich is the croque monsieur, made with Gruyère, Parmesan and ham, covered in a béchamel sauce and toasted in the oven, or the croque madame, which also has an egg on top. It’s served in French cafés, bistros and brasseries as a hearty lunch, often with salad or fries.
Though it’s been around since the thirteenth century, paté en croute is having a moment on menus at trendy bistros and neighbourhood spots in the UK. Translating as pâté in crust, the dish has a distinctive loaf-shaped hot water crust pastry shell housing cured meats, preserved fruit and nuts, pâté and jelly.
Essential bistro dessert tarte Tatin (named after the Tatin sisters who accidentally invented it – read more about the fortuitous inventions of some of our favourite foods here) looks gorgeous and is equally as delicious. Richard Davies’ traditional version uses apples and is packed with tips to make it a success.
For more, don’t miss our collection of French recipes. Bon appetit!