Cheeses of Europe: a guide to French cheeses

Cheeses of Europe: a guide to French cheeses

Cheeses of Europe: a guide to French cheeses

by Great British Chefs12 November 2024

Home to hundreds of varieties and rich in tradition, there are few countries with such a deep-rooted connection to cheese as France. Here, we’ve journeyed through just a handful of the essentials to try.

Header image photography © A. ROCHE / A. BRETIN / CNIEL

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Cheeses of France

Cheeses of Europe: a guide to French cheeses

Home to hundreds of varieties and rich in tradition, there are few countries with such a deep-rooted connection to cheese as France. Here, we’ve journeyed through just a handful of the essentials to try.

Header image photography © A. ROCHE / A. BRETIN / CNIEL

Great British Chefs is a team of passionate food lovers dedicated to bringing you the latest food stories, news and reviews.

Great British Chefs is a team of passionate food lovers dedicated to bringing you the latest food stories, news and reviews as well as access to some of Britain’s greatest chefs. Our posts cover everything we are excited about from the latest openings and hottest food trends to brilliant new producers and exclusive chef interviews.

France takes its cheese seriously. Not only are the French some of the biggest consumers of cheese in the world, but France is also home to over 1,200 cheeses, ranging from pungent and oozing to hard and nutty. Cheese-making has been in the country’s culture for thousands of years, relying on traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation. The finished products reflect its diverse terroirs and landscapes, with each area putting its own stamp on the cheese it makes.

Today, some of their most famous exports are enjoyed around the world – Camembert, Brie and Brillat-Savarin among them – with many more waiting to be discovered in its towns and villages. And while plenty should be savoured in their purest form, on their own alongside a glass of perfectly-paired red, others are weaved into France’s fantastic cooking, from aligot to cheese soufflé. Looking to brush up on your French fromage? Below, we’ve focused on just a handful of our favourite cow’s milk cheeses.

Hard cheese

Comté PDO

One of France’s most beloved cheeses, Comté hails from the rolling hills of the Jura Massif region. It’s semi-hard, made from raw cow’s milk and is the result of a complex process which relies on collaboration between local farmers – you can read more about that here. Affineurs (those responsible for ageing cheese) develop it for a minimum of four months, often up to eighteen and sometimes beyond, a process which transforms its flavour from mild and sweet to deeper and nuttier, although both young and mature versions of Comté are prized. 

Comté is incredibly versatile – celebrate it by simply giving it pride of place on your cheeseboard, or weave it into cooking. It’s used in local dishes like fondue Jurasienne and poulet à la Comtoise (you can try our version of Comté chicken here), but also a great match for soufflés, quiches and omelettes. Comté and potato also go hand-in-hand – our Comté pomme duchesse recipe combines it with mashed potato, which is then baked to make beautifully cheesy bites.

Salers PDO

Originating from the Cantal mountains in Auvergne, Salers is made exclusively from the raw milk of Salers cows. It’s produced between 15th April and 15th November, when the herds graze pastures, which gives it distinctive earthy, floral and slightly tangy notes, reflective of its environment. Though it is used in cooking – sometimes grated over pastas and stews to deepen the flavour – Salers is usually enjoyed on its own, paired with full-bodied reds, dark ales, and nuts and fruits.

Beaufort PDO

Alpine cheese Beaufort is produced in the Savoie region, where it’s made from raw cow’s milk. It blends buttery notes with grassy and herby aromas, which are reminiscent of the pastures on which its cows graze. You might hear it nicknamed the Prince of Gruyères, after its Alpine cousin, but Beaufort has a gentler taste than Gruyère or Comté (it’s also hole-free). There are 3 denominations for Beaufort: the ‘Beaufort' made from November to May, the ‘Beaufort été’ (summer) and the ‘Beaufort chalet d’alpage’ (made in chalets at high altitudes). In cooking, it’s commonly used in fondue thanks to its ease of melting (Lorna McNee combines a Beaufort fondue with a mincemeat waffle in this festive dish), and is often paired with white wine.

Soft cheese

Brie

Arguably France’s best-known culinary export, soft Brie can be found on shelves, cheeseboards and menus across the world. It was born in the Île-de-France region and is known for its creamy, buttery, gently pungent nature, though its flavour shifts depending on its age – young Brie tends to be sweeter, while mature varieties often develop earthier notes. Today, there are many varieties of Brie-style cheese, including 2 PDOs; Brie de Meaux and Brie de Melun. Brie is best served at room temperature or warmer – it’s often served melted, whether it’s deep-fried, baked into pies and pithiviers or used as a filling, and is also a popular sandwich filling (we’ve used it in our festive cabbage and pistachio sandwich recipe here).

Époisses PDO

Strong, pungent and gooey, Époisses is a delicacy for cheese-lovers. It’s a soft, washed rind cheese made over a large part of the Côte d’Or, which can be found year-round, but is at its peak from May to November, during grazing periods. It has a distinctive, wrinkled orange rind – caused by fermenting bacteria – and a strong aroma. When it’s fully ripe, Époisses is very soft, almost runny, in texture, and has a smooth and complex salty yet creamy flavour. Though it can be baked and used similarly to brie and camembert, its unique flavour means it is also savoured alone or on crackers, with a full-bodied red wine.

Langres PDO

Another washed rind cheese, Langres hails from the Champagne region – it’s made outside the market town of Langres – and is characterised by its appearance, in particular its concave top. Its dip is the result of it only being turned once during maturation, which means it sags in the middle, but it’s put to good use – cheese fans pour a trickle of champagne into it before serving. As it’s made, Langres is brushed with Marc de Bourgogne, which causes orange bacteria to grow on the rind. It has a creamy interior, with a tangy, earthy and slightly spicy bite – it’s great paired with a crisp white or sparkling wine which enhances it.

Blue cheese

Fourme d'Ambert PDO

One of France’s oldest cheeses, Fourme d’Ambert dates back as far as Roman times. It has a milder, creamier flavour than other blue cheeses, which makes it popular among those looking for a less sharp option (it’s sometimes called the connoisseur's blue cheese). Fourme d’Ambert is made from raw cow’s milk in the Auvergne region, and has a narrow cylindrical shape. It’s earthy and slightly sweet, pairing well with Port, and is often used in cooking – Matt Gillan pairs it with king oyster mushrooms, cherry vinegar and chocolate here, but it can often be spotted in salads, tarts and bakes.

Bleu d'Auvergne PDO

Created in the nineteenth century, Bleu d’Auvergne is said to have been the result of a fromager experimenting with ways of introducing mould to his cheese. He realised his technique had worked, and it quickly spread around the region. Bleu d’Auvergne is sharper and bolder in flavour than Fourme D’Ambert, sometimes described as a slightly less salty version of Roquefort. It has become a favourite among cheese-lovers for its complex punch of pungency, which also lends itself well to the likes of salad dressings and baked pasta dishes. It’s also a great counterpoint to sweet dessert wines and bold red wines.

From mild to pungent and sweet to nutty, France’s enormous variety of cheese means there is something for everyone.

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