Olympic flames appeared eighteen times in the competition, but only one has stayed alight all the way to the banquet. Ben Palmer’s shimmering vegan starter even managed to eclipse the magical work of plant-based chef, Kirk Haworth, who narrowly missed out on this course. Ben’s ‘Firefly’ tartlet of spiralling golden beetroot, whipped vegan feta and black garlic ketchup is topped with a flame of gilded seaweed that looks perfectly at home in the neo-classical splendour of the British Ambassador’s Residence. ‘Absolutely stunning,’ says Dame Jessica Ennis-Hill of both the starter and its setting. 

‘I’d love to go to Paris and show the French how it’s done,’ declared Adam Smith of his haute cuisine fish dish on Tuesday. Fellow chef, Cal Byerley, who lost this course by just one point, generously told the judges, ‘I’d have questioned the four of you if you hadn’t picked that!’ Whilst most of the French may be otherwise engaged, the Brits are loving Adam’s meticulously prepared turbot with trout mousse. It’s served with Romanesco cauliflower, pickled cucumber, caviar and two ‘world class’ sauces of truffle and English sparkling wine. The British Ambassador, Dame Menna Rawlings looks like she’s in danger of licking her plate clean. Oh, and then a Frenchman sings its praises too! ‘Absolutely fantastic… and I mean that from my heart,’ says none other than Raymond Blanc OBE. 

Having boldly asserted in the regional heats, ‘I want the main course… and I want two courses,’ private chef, Kate Austen has achieved at least fifty percent of her ambition. On reflection, she may be somewhat relieved that her dream wasn’t fully realised, as she has a lot on her plate. As do the diners. With over seventy quails to debone and stuff, Scotch eggs to make, potato podiums to spiralise, French toast to truffle and figs to marinate, Kate is grateful to have some help from her fellow chefs. It’s well worth the effort. ‘Genuinely, the best thing I’ve ever eaten in this competition,’ decides Michael O’Hare. Sport climber, Toby Roberts says, ‘I’ve never had figs before – it was enlightening.’ However, Kate is not happy with a batch of overcooked Scotch eggs and decides to leave them off. Ed Gamble apologises for ‘bigging up the Scotch eggs’ that never arrive.

Kate may be a little disappointed with her performance but she’s deservedly proud of now becoming the first female chef to cook the main course in the regular competition. Kirk is also a programme pioneer, not only as the first plant-based chef, but also the first to follow in his father’s footsteps, as Nigel Haworth cooked at the GBM banquet fifteen years ago.

Kirk’s ‘A Taste of Unity’ takes ingredients from the five continents to produce a magical, undetectably plant-based dessert that got full marks from the judges on Thursday. His Olympic ring of set chocolate cream on a cacao sponge base, incudes pepper, sour cherry, toasted macadamia nuts, a rocher of coconut blossom ice cream and an indulgent drizzle of coconut and maple caramel sauce. ‘Just incredible!’ declares Ellie Simmonds OBE.

Just before everyone contemplates a return journey on Eurostar and wonders if the British Ambassador perhaps has a spare room… or seventy, Andi Oliver announces that the champion of champions is Kirk. At the end of the day, there are still no medals. Kate and Kirk may revel in their record breaking, and almost everyone achieved a personal best. After all, as our old friend Pierre de Coubertin once said, ‘the important thing in the Olympic Games is not to win, but to take part.’ Kirk’s utterly thrilled face suggests otherwise - with GBM, it’s definitely all about winning!