It's been a busy week in Great British Menu, with four chefs from the South West of England battling for a place in finals week. Howard Middleton fills us in on the latest.
It's been a busy week in Great British Menu, with four chefs from the South West of England battling for a place in finals week. Howard Middleton fills us in on the latest.
‘In any other week, you’d have gone through.’ In a high-scoring week, Andi Oliver consoled
Andi Tuck, head chef at Harbour House in Flushing, that he missed his chance to cook for the judges not because of bad cooking, but by bad luck. He followed newcomer Mike Naidoo, chef patron at Catch at the Old Fish Market, Weymouth whose competition hopes ran aground after two dishes featuring edible rocks. GBM’s process of elimination is fair to all the regions, but it doesn’t always feel fair to all chefs.
Hoping her third time in the competition will be the lucky one, Elly Wentworth, executive chef at The Angel in Dartmouth now faces newcomer Ben Palmer, chef patron at The Sardine Factory, Looe, whose self-critical eye led to some dramatic underscoring against this week’s veteran, Tom Aikens.
Ben’s canapé is a croustade of cured mackerel pâté and cider gel. ‘Oh, I love that,’ exclaims Nisha, praising both its ‘acidity’ and ‘crunch’. ‘Like a ploughman’s, all in one,’ says Tom of Elly’s pickled walnut, potato and smoked cheese tartlet. It’s ‘very, very, very close,’ he admits, but all opt for Ben’s as their winner.
Starters offer a choice of beetroot or beetroot. Ben’s ‘Firefly’ shares its name with the plane that transported the Olympic flame from Athens to Cornwall in 2012. Golden beetroot is cooked in a kombu and salt crust, glazed with beetroot liquor and lemon thyme, then placed on a base of cashew and seaweed pastry, whipped vegan feta and black garlic ketchup. Subtly illuminated in individual lanterns, Ed says the presentation is ‘absolutely stunning.’ Tom thinks the beetroot needs ‘a touch more pickle flavour’ but he increases his ‘very’ count and calls it ‘a very, very, very, very good starter.’
Elly’s ‘Beet the Competition’ sees the nutrient-rich superfood transformed into a toasted quinoa and vegan feta salad, marinated beetroot spaghetti, roasted baby beets and a dehydrated crisp. Nisha immediately downs the accompanying shot, confessing, ‘I love beetroot juice,’ but Tom is less enthusiastic. ‘It feels like I’m on a diet,’ he says, glumly adding, ‘I don’t want to feel like I’m on a diet at a banquet.’
Great minds think alike again, as the fish course sees two scallop dishes inspired by Tom Daley. Ben tried to get scallops from the same free diver that Elly uses, but he took a deep breath and said ‘no.’ Settling instead for hand-dived scallops, he goes for golden-themed accompaniments of cauliflower pakora, mango pickle, sag aloo potatoes, pickled raisins, cumin yoghurt and a generous garnish of gold leaf. ‘Mine tastes delicious,’ says Tom of his cod alternative, and Nisha praises the ‘delicately spiced’ sag aloo. We’re less than halfway through the menu, but guest judge, Joe Choong MBE decides it’s ‘one of my favourite dishes of the day, actually.’ However, head judge Tom questions its link to the brief, admitting, ‘I’ve got absolutely no idea what it’s got to do with Tom Daley, though.’
Elly is potentially in safer waters with her ‘Crochet Daley’, which includes scallop roe crackers perched on tiny diving boards and tomato butter sauce in teapots with crocheted rainbow cosies. Tom Aikens scored it a ten and the judges seem equally impressed with the perfectly cooked free-dived scallops, smoked tomato jam and tomato and fennel fondue. Tom Kerridge gets pink bream and a sea lettuce cracker, which he says is ‘absolutely delicious.’ Joe, who knows Tom Daley, says it completely reflects his warmth and personality, and Ed concludes ‘this is on brief and on theme.’
‘VC’ is Elly’s venison and celeriac tribute to Sir Philip Neame – gold medal winner in the running deer event at the 1924 Paris Olympics and a war veteran who was awarded the Victoria Cross. Onto bespoke plates go venison loin in a juniper and white pepper spice, cocoa nib oats, celeriac remoulade, buttermilk and celeriac purée and pomme purée. Elly’s own charcuterie of venison heart is shaved over slices of hot boudin of venison shank and salt-baked celeriac, whilst jugs of her venison gravy, aka ‘sexy sauce’ accompany. Nisha catches Tom drinking gravy by the spoonful and agrees ‘it’s delicious’ and there’s high praise for the boudin, but the venison itself seems off target. ‘Not quite up to standard,’ says Joe, and Tom agrees his is ‘a little tough.’
Ben’s Greek-inspired main course, ‘Temple of Hera’ features lamb rump cooked over olive wood, a briam of courgette, tomato and slow-cooked lamb neck, hung yoghurt with olive oil and burnt cucumber powder, and barbecued aubergine purée with feta and dried olives. ‘Phenomenal’ is Nisha’s opinion of the purée, and Tom agrees, loves the lamb rump, but finds the olives ‘too offensive’. Joe, Ed and Nisha are all searching for something ‘a bit more carby’ then Ed realises he’s probably eaten too much anyway.
Whilst the judges take a breather and wait for pre-desserts, there’s time for a quick course on ice cream machine mechanics. I’m no wiser by the end of it, but apparently, it’s not good news if it beeps and says, ‘thermal overload’. If it doesn’t beep, we’re good to go. Unless, I presume, it wasn’t switched on in the first place. Ben wisely calls an expert, who finally gets it to work, but he’s still nervously anticipating the sound of the ominous beep.
Blissfully unaware of this kitchen drama, the judges enjoy Elly’s cassis and blackberry sorbet, dipped in white chocolate and topped with toasted honey mousse and bee pollen. The theme of her pre-dessert isn’t obvious, but Tom says, ‘I don’t think we should be worrying too much’ as it’s ‘delicious.’ Ed disagrees, pointing to Ben’s meringue table tennis ball as a fine example of what theming looks like. Filled with passion fruit and yuzu cream and mango salsa, Nisha says she prefers the flavours of Elly’s, then chooses Ben’s. Ed, who championed Ben's, chooses Elly’s. They’re a fickle bunch and the round ends in a draw.
On to desserts proper and Elly’s ‘Marathon Malt’ is inspired by the fact that runners in the 1928 Olympics were given Horlicks at the hydration stations. She serves malt, orange zest and chocolate mousse, bitter orange purée, roast barley ice cream and mugs of her own recipe for the classic malted milk drink. Nisha says the malt elements are ‘just so warming and lovely’ but questions if the ‘fruit acidity’ is ‘fighting a little bit’. Ed finds the drink a rather depressing reminder of childhood disappointment. ‘I like it,’ says Tom. Ed teases that he, like the drink, is ‘just a weird thing from the past.’
Finally, the sound of Ben’s dessert approaching is not heralded by any worrying mechanical beeps but by the more pleasant melody of his ice cream cart. Stacked with brown butter waffle cones of clotted cream ice cream, it also has a wealth of toppings that range from scone crumbs and strawberry jam to salted honey caramel and affogato syrup. Joe says it would be a ‘unique experience’ at the banquet, and Ed agrees, ‘I’d be so excited.’ However, although Tom is a big fan of the cone, he’s still not convinced it would be right for the banquet, adding, ‘I’m not quite sure what it’s got to do with the Olympics.’
Anyway, in what Andi describes as the closest result in the competition, it’s Ben who’ll get another chance to prove his ice cream cart links to the brief in next week’s finals. It’s a bittersweet ending to the regional heats. Even though we all know ‘there can be only one winner’ from each region, finals week will be just that little bit less colourful without a set of crocheted rainbow tea cosies and the force that is ‘Elly from the telly.’