Howard Middleton recounts the goings-on of the Great British Menu kitchen this week, as Wales' brightest culinary talents battled it out for a place at the banquet.
‘It’s French onion soup but I’m trying to make it as pretentious as I can,’ quipped charismatic newcomer Lewis Dwyer. In a heat that’s traditionally known for its fire, dragons and, well… heat, this year’s Welsh chefs were a noticeably cool contingent. Lewis, chef patron at Hiraeth in Bridgend, clearly beat his rival Corrin Harrison on the tattoo front, but Corrin proved to have more up his sleeve. Lewis left after his trendy, but ultimately unsuccessful, reworking of a fish finger sandwich.
Veteran chef, Lisa Goodwin-Allen said she was looking for ‘something that’s ground-breaking.’ Nick Rudge, chef patron at The Jackdaw, Conway duly obliged with locally sourced coal. However, despite a pair of impactful retro glasses, he failed to see an early exit coming.
And so, after an all too brief veteran chef debut for the ever-popular Tom Shepherd, who returned to help Lisa judge the fish course, we’re left with an equally popular returner, Larkin Cen, owner of Daily Noodles in Bristol, up against newcomer Corrin.
Corrin, who is head chef at Gwen, Machynlleth, seems very laid back. He says, ‘I’m not looking for the appraisal of anyone else. So, if you don’t like it, then I’m not that bothered to be honest.’ Hmm, we’ll see. His restaurant only seats eight diners, but he’s catering for an even more exclusive group of four today, as regulars Ed, Nisha and Tom are joined by Olympic hurdler Colin Jackson CBE.
The judges begin with Larkin’s canapé of a Chinese potsticker dumpling with mushroom XO, bonito vinegar and XO-infused oil. ‘Cliding’ is Colin’s description of the dumpling, and Tom agrees it’s ‘fairly solid’ but says the XO sauce is ‘just magic.’ ‘Very simple and very lovely’ is Nisha’s assessment of Corrin’s pie tee tart, filled with cured trout, celeriac purée and Iberico pork belly in jalapeno hot sauce. Tom thinks it could only have been improved by another serving of the magical XO sauce.
Larkin’s starter is his take on the classic Sichuan dish of mapo tofu. He drizzles red Sichuan chilli oil over chunky portions of mushroom XO sauce, then adds sautéed enoki and shimeji mushrooms and tofu in a fiery broad bean, ginger, garlic and chilli sauce. The dish is presented in a golden post box, as a nod to the commemorative post boxes painted for the 2012 Olympics and Paralympics. Nisha says it’s not overly hot – just ‘scintillating and tantalising.’ Tom agrees the spice levels are ‘beautiful’ but thinks it’s just a bit heavy on the ‘squishy tofu.’ Colin picks up the postal theme and says the flavour ‘delivered.’
‘Loosely based on a cawl, or Welsh stew’ is how Corrin describes his weightlifting-inspired starter, full of fresh veg and ancient grains. Into kettlebell weight bowls go leek and miso purée, charred leek, silken tofu, caramelised spelt, warm leek dashi broth and chive oil. Colin says he’s a fan, but feels he’s been ‘tasting a little bit too much of the leek family.’ Ed thinks the grains have a ‘slightly unpleasant texture,’ but Tom disagrees. ‘I thought the chew on the grains was fantastic,’ he says.
‘Arigato Tokyo, Bonjour Paris’ is Larkin’s celebration of the handover of the Olympics and Paralympics. It’s a little zen garden of omakase-style sushi – a crispy maki roll of salmon and avocado, tuna nigiri with wasabi, salmon nigiri with yuzu, tuna and wakame gunkan, and a salad of salmon trim and flying fish roe in a sesame, soy and honey dressing. ‘Sushi on the Great British Menu,’ cheers Nisha in anticipation, adding ‘I’m really excited about this.’ However, she’s ultimately disappointed. ‘There is no link to the brief,’ she admits, as the judges fail to find any trace of Paris in the tasty food. ‘You want French-Japanese fusion,’ suggests Colin, and it’s just not there.
‘I’m a little bit nervous actually,’ confesses Corrin, as he realises he’s about to serve his ‘Ode to Colin Jackson’ to the man himself. His version of a Caribbean favourite – saltfish and callaloo, has salted mackerel warmed through in miso butter, spiced callaloo purée made from Swiss chard, barbecued and raw sweetcorn, puffed wild rice and a dressing of soy and roasted mackerel bones. ‘I think this may be one of those rare occasions where I’m let down by the presentation, but the flavours are doing enough,’ admits Ed. Colin loves it too, but Nisha isn’t quite as tolerant. ‘I love that it’s about you, because we love you,’ she says to Colin, ‘but that is not enough.’ Tom reflects on his fellow judges’ opinions and simply adds, admiringly, ‘I’ve not had a combination that comes together like that in a long, long time.’
For his main course, ‘The Shoot’, Corrin serves barbecued French Anjou pigeon crown, beetroot and vanilla purée, roasted beetroot, pickled lettuce and a pigeon, soy and chocolate sauce. After no less than four unsuccessful attempts, he’s finally happy with the pastry for his accompanying tartlets of pigeon offal and beetroot. Nisha and Colin love it too, but Tom isn’t so sure. ‘I think the pastry is nice, but I think it’s the wrong type of pastry… it just explodes and crumbles,’ he says. Ed ventures that it’s part of the theme – ‘it’s like someone’s taken a shotgun to it.’
‘The Cauldron’ sees Larkin rework a hugely popular dish from his last appearance on GBM – the hotpot. Thin slices of Welsh sirloin are dropped into the bubbling broth of beef dripping, chicken stock, bean curd, spring onion, Sichuan pepper, liquorice and chilli, along with noodles, mushrooms and chrysanthemum leaves. Cumin-rubbed and barbecued lamb cutlets accompany, alongside sauces of fermented chive, fermented tofu and more chilli. ‘Mega!’ is Tom’s appreciative assessment of the blazing presentation, but the food itself gets a lukewarm response. ‘I’m not getting the pop of Sichuan that I want,’ bemoans Nisha. Ed agrees that it may be ‘slightly one-dimensional in the flavour’ but he loves it anyway. ‘I just don’t think that it’s quite as exciting as it looks,’ concludes Tom.
‘I think that’s just gorgeous!’ beams Nisha, as she tucks in to Corrin’s pre-dessert of a little buckwheat cone of soya bean ice cream and shiso meringue. ‘There’s no shiso in the meringue,’ complains Tom. Ed prefers Larkin’s cube of torched marshmallow with a blob of yuzu curd and an apple blossom petal, but Nisha thinks it tastes a bit ‘fishy.’ Colin grimaces and says diplomatically, ‘it was not as enjoyable as the first one, for me, personally.’
On to dessert and Corrin’s miso treacle tart is proving popular even before it arrives in the judging chamber. ‘I’d order this on a menu,’ says Ed, and Nisha agrees that ‘it sounds so good.’ Given his previous pastry problems, it’s fortuitous that Corrin has swapped the traditional shortcrust for a caramelised milk crumb, serving it with a yoghurt and honey ice cream. ‘I love this!’ smiles Tom, adding ‘it’s so simple… and it’s delicious.’ Colin agrees that ‘it’s created magic in the mouth.’
Larkin’s dessert is a bao bun of salted duck egg custard served with chilled herbal tea. It’s meant to resemble a shot-put shot, but, having ditched the charcoal colouring that caused problems with the dough’s texture, it now looks like… well, as Tom says, ‘…it is perfectly lovely to eat… but it is still just a bao bun.’
In the end, Corrin gets both the appraisal and approval of the judges and secures a place in finals week. He says he’s ‘got goosebumps’, he says he’s ‘over the moon.’ He still looks very, very cool.