Great British Menu 2025: the banquet recap

Great British Menu 2025: the banquet recap

Great British Menu 2025: the banquet recap

by Howard Middleton28 March 2025

Catch up on everything that happened at the banquet of Great British Menu 2025, with Howard Middleton.

Great British Menu 2025: the banquet recap

Catch up on everything that happened at the banquet of Great British Menu 2025, with Howard Middleton.

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Great British Menu 2025

Howard is a food writer and presenter from Sheffield, who first caught the public’s attention on series four of The Great British Bake Off, going on to win their affection with his quirky style and love of unusual ingredients.

Howard is a food writer and presenter from Sheffield, who first caught the public’s attention on series four of The Great British Bake Off, going on to win their affection with his quirky style and love of unusual ingredients. He now demonstrates his creative approach to gluten-free baking at numerous food festivals and shows and by teaching baking classes around the country, including at corporate events, commercial promotions and private parties. Howard continues to entertain audiences as a public speaker, compere and broadcaster.

Howard is a food writer and presenter from Sheffield, who first caught the public’s attention on series four of The Great British Bake Off, going on to win their affection with his quirky style and love of unusual ingredients.

Howard is a food writer and presenter from Sheffield, who first caught the public’s attention on series four of The Great British Bake Off, going on to win their affection with his quirky style and love of unusual ingredients. He now demonstrates his creative approach to gluten-free baking at numerous food festivals and shows and by teaching baking classes around the country, including at corporate events, commercial promotions and private parties. Howard continues to entertain audiences as a public speaker, compere and broadcaster.

Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue. All four are present in the competition finale and, true to the wedding day rhyme, this year’s banquet nearly ends up being cooked by a happy couple. In a week dominated by two chefs, Sally Abé and Jean Delport, it’s a blessing for anyone else to get a look in.

Now, before I go any further, let me make it clear that ‘something old’ is not the incomparable Dame Prue Leith, one of the original GBM judges, who returns to cast her fabulously bespectacled eyes and seasoned palate over the finalist’s desserts. No, ‘old’ refers to those comfortingly familiar characteristics of finals week, which starts with chefs comparing marks from the heats and weighing up Michelin stars and ends with a chosen few bravely battling numerous problems at the banquet venue. Over the years, we’ve had kitchens sited miles away from the dining room, fire regulations that forced chefs to barbecue outside and Covid restrictions that seated diners in a windswept tent. It’s somehow reassuring to discover that, though the last of these is thankfully absent, the others are back again.

Two chefs find their places in finals week ‘borrowed.’ Having scored lowest in the heats for fish, poor Daniel is made to sit out of the course in favour of Andi Oliver’s ‘wild card’ from the North East England heat, Ahmed Abdala. He’s heralded as the ‘highest scoring’ runner up from the heats, despite the fact that Nicholas Balfe from South West England is equally placed. Similarly, Northern Ireland finalist Stevie McCarry must temporarily step aside to accommodate Tom Kerridge’s desire for another helping of haggis, as prepared by Scotland’s runner up, Calum Munro. Tom soon discovers that the dish is not quite as good the second time around, which, as with so many things in life, is nothing new.

What is ‘new’ is Sally’s success. At her third attempt in the competition, the executive chef at The Pem in London finally secures a place at the banquet with her starter. And she does it in style, beating her impressive score from the heats to achieve perfect marks for her roasted onion consommé tribute to Florence Nightingale.

‘Probably not my strongest,’ says Jean of his fish course, but he’s proved wrong as his classy reworking of a classic sole Veronique in honour of Elizabeth David is duly added to the menu. Determined to get at least one more of his ‘stronger’ dishes to the banquet, the executive chef at Restaurant Interlude in Sussex keeps going, perhaps overlooking the gruelling demands of a double service.

On Wednesday, Scotland’s finalist Mark McCabe drops his head and gasps a plaintive little sigh of defeat as he’s told his previously perfect main course has been relegated to joint second place with that of North East England’s Callum Leslie. Jean’s expletive requires a bleep as, after a full marks tie with Sally, he’s told he’s cooking that course too.

Befitting this milestone year in GBM history, it’s also a record-breaking result for dessert, as another pair of perfect marks sees Sally tie with South West England’s food educator, Amber Francis. Andi is left to call the course in Amber’s favour and guest judge, Dame Prue says she’s thrilled to see ‘two women who are bang up there.’

As the highest scoring chef not to get a course, Mark is given the job of canapé, which he handles with patriotic aplomb, producing delicate thistle-shaped tuiles filled with creamy venison parfait. He soon finds the trio of winning chefs have more jobs for him, including demonstrating some commendable first aid skills when Jean slices his hand on a mandoline.

It's an appropriate time to serve Sally’s nursing-themed starter and the banquet guests are visibly soothed as they savour the bowls of gently bathed succulent onions stuffed with vegan cheese mash and peppered with little pops of piquant pickles. Cerys Matthews sings its praises, calling it ‘the most delicious broth ever,’ whilst Dame Denise Lewis says she’s ‘in heaven.’

‘I didn’t come here to compete,’ complains Michael O’Hare, as he and his fellow veteran chefs are roped in to serve Jean’s fish to diners less experienced in filleting. The glaze of soy, koji butter and dashi has been barbecued to crispy perfection and the accompanying vin jaune sauce is a distinguished crowd pleaser. Then Jean discovers he’s forgotten to cook some of his potatoes en papillote with tarragon and vermouth butter and Ed Gamble is inexplicably put on potato rationing duty. Nevertheless, esteemed chef Claire Smyth deems it ‘a fitting tribute’ to Elizabeth David.

Jean’s mesmerising eyes are still gazing wistfully (and perhaps a little regretfully) as he moves onto his marathon main course of barbecued rack of goat dedicated to Charles Ignatius Sancho. ‘Lush, innit?’ says Tom to Paul Ainsworth, as they tuck in to the plentiful bowls of fiery goat stew, roasted okra and spicy smoked rice. With so much on his plate, Jean is understandably distracted, leaving carefully prepared trays of the goat’s herb crust untouched until it’s too late. However, composer of the GBM theme tune, Daniel Pemberton decides it’s still his ‘favourite course.’ Other guests find their eyes watering at the pungency.

On to something cool, calm and collected, as Amber’s beautifully crafted dessert is served, inspired by writer and philanthropist Hannah More. RNLI volunteer Grace Palmieri says the page of tempered white chocolate is ‘genius’ and her fellow diners delight as their palates are educated with new flavour experiences. By the time the voting slips are distributed, it’s pretty clear there’s a strong contingent in favour of hay-infused set cream, fermented strawberries, and charcoal biscuit sandwiches of honey parfait. Crowned this year’s champion of champions, it’s an emotional end to a day on which Amber also reveals she is pregnant.

So, what, you may ask, is the ‘something blue’ of this week? Well, it’s fair to say that, on occasions, the air in the kitchen has been blue. And it’s hard to ignore the piercing blue of Jean’s eyes. Really, really hard. But the strongest shade of all is undoubtedly that shared case of ‘the blues’ as we realise that, once again, Great British Menu is over for another year. Sigh.