It's time to catch up on everything that happened in the North East heat of the Great British Menu 2025, with Howard Middleton.
‘I’ve been very consistent across the week. He hasn’t been quite as consistent.’ It’s an uncharacteristically biting observation from the seemingly mild-mannered Callum Leslie, executive chef at The Black Swan, Oldstead, as he weighs up the chances of his rival Ahmed Abdalla, head chef at Legacy at The Grand hotel in York. Equally tested by the cruelty of the GBM kitchen clock and the critique of veteran Michael O’Hare, they manage to see off fellow competitors Scott John-Hodgson, head chef at Solstice, Newcastle and Minal Patel, head chef at Prashad, Bradford. Crestfallen Scott is forced to admit he’s had ‘just one of them days.’ Irrepressibly ebullient Minal consoles herself with the knowledge that the main course of her vegetarian menu has been ‘phenomenal.’
Having frustrated the veteran with a less than efficient way of working, Ahmed now commits to being as organised as Callum, who typically arrives early at the pass. ‘You have three minutes,’ announces Michael O’Hare. ‘I’ll be up in two and a half,’ Callum replies.
So, as historian Greg Jenner joins judges Tom, Lorna and Ed, the countdown begins, and canapés are served. Fast becoming the trendiest of tasters, venison tartare is back for a second week. Ahmed’s tartlets include dots of tarragon mayonnaise, pickled radish and alyssum flowers. Callum serves whipped buttermilk and lobster tail for the seafood eaters, and venison, preserved rhubarb and truffle for the others. ‘Chewy’ pastry from Ahmed secures a clean sweep for Callum.
‘Tricky’ is Greg’s description of Captain James Cook, the controversial inspiration for Ahmed’s starter. Choosing to focus on Cook’s discovery of a fermented diet in combatting scurvy, the chef presents a slice of soy-glazed, salt-baked celeriac, served with fermented grains, smoked red onion, apple and celeriac sauerkraut, black garlic and mustard emulsion and a truffle sauce. Tom compliments the ‘homely, earthy flavours’ but says it’s ‘lacking a focus point.’ ‘I’d be chuffed with this on a ship though,’ quips Ed.
Back on dry land (and safer ground) with his homage to Huddersfield suffragette Dora Thewlis, Callum serves a tea party of onions – roasted, fermented, crispy and as a broth, and a new addition of vegan cheese and truffle palmiers. With various components in cups, sugar bowls and a teapot, Lorna says, ‘I don’t really see what we’re meant to be doing here,’ and Ed agrees, ‘I’m confused.’ Tom likes the teapot broth and crispy onions but generally admits, ‘I’m not a big fan.’
Hopefully the judges are bigger fans of monkfish, as both chefs have opted to serve it for their next course. Ahmed’s is treated to a rub of jerk spice before being water bathed and pan fried. Plated with callaloo sauce, preserved lemon yoghurt and scotch bonnet emulsion, it’s described by the chef as a ‘punchy’ tribute to the first British professional black footballer, Arthur Wharton. ‘Yum yum,’ says Ed, and Lorna agrees it’s ‘fantastic.’ Greg, who doesn’t eat fish, is treated to a dish of spiced cauliflower, which he says is both ‘warming’ and ‘welcoming.’ ‘Super, super tasty,’ concludes Tom.
Callum’s monkfish has what Michael O’Hare describes as ‘a scampi and chips vibe’ and he’s certainly ‘frying tonight’ as he has three deep fat fryers on the go to cater for the judges’ diets. Along with confit potatoes in a tartare sauce, there’s roasted monkfish, and a choice of tempura battered scallop, mushroom or more monkfish. ‘Delicious,’ says Tom. He and Lorna agree the addition of a second sauce is unnecessary, but he’s in a minority, arguing for the champagne and vanilla version over tartare. Greg likens it to ‘a day trip to Whitby… you get your fish and chips, and then you get your ice cream!’
Day trip over, Callum swiftly takes us back to school with his edible science lesson on the carbon cycle. Barbecued beef rib is served with braised ox cheek and mushroom ragout, smoked beef fat hollandaise, crunchy beef fat soil, lovage emulsion, Sungold tomato purée, pickled barbecued hen-of-the-woods and a rich beef sauce. Ed is still in a holiday mood, wanting to put the beef fat hollandaise ‘all over me, like suncream.’ ‘Amazing,’ says Tom, adding the ragout is ‘outstanding.’ ‘Two tweaks away from being banquet ready,’ decides Ed, as he and Tom agree it’s only missing ‘a lump of bread.’
Taking the judges’ request quite literally for his steam train themed main, Ahmed serves up lumps of coal-like milk bread to go with his smoked venison loin. Having missed this and other elements at its first outing, Andi teases him that he’s back ‘on track’ as he plates up braised carrots, pickled blackberries, fried king oyster mushroom and a roasted onion, mushroom and sherry purée. ‘Really exciting,’ is Lorna’s verdict on the presentation, but she’s disappointed with the ‘flat’ flavours. Tom agrees it’s ‘immaculately finished’ and ‘brilliantly cooked’ but decides that the venison needs ‘more smoke.’
Sadly, Ahmed’s newfound punctuality is short lived. ‘I just ran out of time,’ he laments as he’s disappointed with his pre-dessert of mango and lime mousse with passion fruit gel, pineapple and rum foam. ‘I can’t seem to find the coconut tuile,’ observes Tom, and it’s clear the chef has missed it off. However, it doesn’t stop Lorna, Ed and Greg favouring it over Callum’s visually stunning recreation of a Barbara Hepworth artwork in parfaits of yoghurt and jelly-glazed blackcurrant and rhubarb.
Taking a culinary walk on the windswept moors of Brontë Country, Callum’s brave dessert features mushroom ice cream, chocolate ganache, mushroom soil, smoked woodruff butterscotch, honeycomb, and shards of woodruff and mushroom meringue. Tom loves the ice cream, but Ed thinks it ‘will divide people’ and although Lorna enjoys the combination of flavours, she tempers her enthusiasm by saying, ‘I just don’t know if it's my banquet dessert.’
Themed around the anti-slavery sugar boycott of the late eighteenth century, Ahmed sweetens his dessert without refined sugar to create a date sponge with honey parfait, lemon and honey mascarpone, apple jelly and goat’s milk and lemon verbena ice cream. Everyone finds something to love, but Tom questions if there’s just too much going on. ‘Maybe this needs things taking away, as opposed to adding to it,’ Tom suggests. It would certainly make Ahmed’s job easier.
Fortunately for Ahmed, he’s able to catch his breath first, as Callum secures the place in finals week. ‘Do you think there’s anything you’ll take from the competition?’ Callum asks Ahmed. Without hesitation he replies, ‘time management!’