Great British Menu 2025: Wales recap

Great British Menu 2025: Wales recap

Great British Menu 2025: Wales recap

by Howard Middleton28 February 2025

It's time to catch up on everything that happened in the Welsh heat of the Great British Menu 2025, with Howard Middleton.

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Great British Menu 2025: Wales recap

It's time to catch up on everything that happened in the Welsh heat of the Great British Menu 2025, with Howard Middleton.

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Great British Menu 2025

Howard is a food writer and presenter from Sheffield, who first caught the public’s attention on series four of The Great British Bake Off, going on to win their affection with his quirky style and love of unusual ingredients.

Howard is a food writer and presenter from Sheffield, who first caught the public’s attention on series four of The Great British Bake Off, going on to win their affection with his quirky style and love of unusual ingredients. He now demonstrates his creative approach to gluten-free baking at numerous food festivals and shows and by teaching baking classes around the country, including at corporate events, commercial promotions and private parties. Howard continues to entertain audiences as a public speaker, compere and broadcaster.

It’s an unwritten rule of Great British Menu that competing chefs must big up their chances. ‘I’m in to win it,’ they say, confidently determined to go ‘all the way’ to the banquet. And then we get someone like Seb Smith, head chef at Allt Yr Afon within Wolfscastle Country Hotel in Haverfordwest. Except there’s nobody quite like Seb. Claiming to have only practised his starter once and his fish dish not at all, he confides that he’s considering retraining as a plasterer. ‘I’m here for a good time, not a long time,’ he says, swiftly proving himself right.

There’s nobody quite like Ayesha Kalaji too. Equally passionate about her cooking and her Welsh and Jordanian roots, the chef patron of the Queen of Cups in Glastonbury is the go-to person if ever your aubergine needs an enthusiastic pep talk. She also shares my habit of chatting to inanimate objects around the kitchen. ‘Come to me, little one,’ she says to a tea towel. The conversation soon dries up when she’s sent home after a disappointing dessert.

So, working in an eerily quieter kitchen, Lewis Dwyer, head chef and joint patron of Hiraeth Kitchen in Cardiff returns to face newcomer Daniel ap Geraint, head chef at the Gunroom Restaurant, in the historic Plas Dinas Country House in Caernarfon. Meanwhile, in the judges’ chamber, singer and broadcaster Cerys Matthews is livening things up with regulars Tom, Ed and Lorna.

Lewis’s canapé is a lobster takoyaki, which he claims is a bit more ‘bougie’ than the traditional octopus. ‘I don’t want to be known as the guy who killed Tom Kerridge,’ he explains, so the head judge with a shellfish allergy reassuringly gets halibut instead. Fortunately, the only peril comes from what Cerys describes as ‘a flavour bomb’ of sesame and sriracha, and Lorna agrees it’s ‘delicious.’ Then Cerys tries Daniel’s crispy duck bonbon with mushroom ketchup and grated duck liver and decides that’s ‘a true flavour bomb’ and her favourite. ‘Almost a little bit overpowering, but you want to go back for more,’ says Tom, but he resists temptation and he, Lorna and Ed lift their plates for Lewis.

Inspired by Wales’s first black headteacher, Betty Campbell, ‘Melting Pot’ is Lewis’s vegan starter of butternut squash and ackee chawanmushi, butternut squash miso jam, pickled shiitake, crispy girolles and hazelnut and pumpkin seed furikake. ‘It’s a very interesting granola, isn’t it?’ ventures Cerys, and the others laugh in agreement. ‘It’s not a bad piece of cookery. It’s just a little bit… intense,’ concludes Tom.

Actor Richard Burton once called laverbread ‘Welshman’s caviar,’ prompting Daniel to embark on the time-consuming task of spherification, as he painstakingly works his magic with laverbread stock and soy sauce. Encased in caviar tins and served with a Welsh love spoon, the black pearls make a classy accompaniment to simpler ingredients of smoked potato, crispy potato, Welsh onion and sea herbs. ‘Delicious,’ says Tom, adding it’s ‘a very refined piece of cookery.’ The smoked potato reminds Cerys of Bonfire Night spuds, which prompts Tom to question if the dish has ‘the fireworks to be banquet worthy,’ but Ed is in no doubt ‘it would be a lovely start.’

Honouring NHS founder Aneurin Bevan, Lewis’s fish course uses acronymic ingredients of nasturtium, horseradish and scallop. It’s an unusual pairing of cold scallop in a warm sauce, which Lorna finds somewhat mismatched, and Ed says is ‘slightly off.’ Tom is happier with his off-theme NHM dish featuring mackerel, but Cerys observes, ‘it’s quite difficult to have a dish that’s inspired by somewhere you go when you’re feeling sick.’

Mackerel is back on the menu for everyone this time in Daniel’s tribute to the trailblazing teacher of navigation, Ellen Edwards. Even before the food comes out, Ed says he’s worried about the description of the dish and especially the inverted commas of mackerel tartare ‘sandwich.’ However, it turns out to be the least of his worries, as he decides the torched mackerel needs ‘more charred flavour’, the watercress velouté ‘needs to be worked on’ and nobody mentions the pickled apple and fennel salad. ‘The food doesn’t have the same impact as the presentation,’ Tom decides. ‘Really close, but it hasn’t quite made port,’ quips Cerys.

‘Hiraeth’ meaning longing in Welsh, is the name of Daniel’s lamb and leek main course. Coincidentally, it’s also the name of his rival’s restaurant, but nobody (including Lewis) mentions this. ‘Absolutely superb,’ says Cerys, as they feast on herb crusted Cambrian Mountain lamb loin, neck and crispy rib, with charred leek, Welsh feta and mint. Lorna praises the ‘decadent’ lamb jus and Tom agrees it’s all ‘amazing.’

Acknowledging its comforting flavours and homely style, this week’s veteran, Spencer Metzger asks Lewis if his main course is the kind of food he grew up on. ‘I grew up on Pot Noodle, so no,’ he admits. Fortunately, the judges get a more considered offering of ex-dairy cow sirloin, ox cheek pie with a blue cheese crumble topping, charred garlic greens, chunky beef fat chips and red wine jus. ‘It’s got all the parts of something that should be magic, and none of it’s quite right,’ bemoans Tom. Ed argues it’s ‘still very impressive’ but it ‘didn’t quite nail it.’ ‘Quite a lot of work for something that’s… alright,’ says Lorna, at least recognising it’s been harder than boiling a kettle.

Effortless dessert tips turn out to be another of Cerys’s talents, as she shares her ‘recipe’ for a halved melon, deseeded and filled with sherry. ‘Or port,’ she suggests, enthusiastically. Tom looks less than impressed, but Cerys insists guests ‘love it.’ Lewis goes to considerably more effort for his coconut-like pre-dessert, filled with coconut and pineapple pannacotta and a lime, jalapeno and cucumber granita. Lorna decides it's ‘too frozen to be a pannacotta’ and she’s ‘not getting the coconut,’ but, in a tight contest, all agree it marginally beats Daniel’s baked yoghurt and passion fruit jelly, with coriander, lime and white chocolate feuilletine.

Celebrating John Jones, the creator of the first telescope in Wales, Daniel aims to produce an edible version of the invention, complete with a sugar lens and feuille de brick casing. Filled with dark chocolate and ale cake, honeycomb mousse, chocolate cremeux and salted caramel, it has a scoop of toasted macadamia ice cream on the side.  Unfortunately, Daniel’s ambitious presentation doesn’t quite succeed, as Tom decides it’s ‘a bit clunky’ and Ed likens the blue lit food to ‘eating in a nightclub toilet.’ Lorna loves the ‘toasty’ ice cream, but Cerys says it all ‘feels like a five-year-old’s birthday’ and concludes it’s ‘exciting… but chaotic.’

Calming things down with a sombre dessert of coal-like choux buns, Lewis fills them with vanilla crème mousseline, cherry jam and chocolate ganache and sits them in a pool of orange and whisky crème anglaise. Tom likes the filling and the custard but is not sure if they go together. Lorna decides it’s ‘too big’ and Ed suggests it would look more dramatic with ‘black custard,’ but all agree with Tom that it has ‘the potential to be magic.’

Sadly, Lewis’s banquet potential will have to wait for another time as it’s Daniel who goes through to finals week. As for the other chefs, Seb may yet return to the GBM kitchen. Whether it’s to cook or to plaster a wall remains to be seen. And Ayesha is missed already. The tea towels haven’t had a decent conversation in weeks.