Over the last fifty years HG Walter has become the butcher of choice for top chefs, thanks to its dedication to going above and beyond to source only the finest cuts of meat. We chat to managing director Adam Heanen to find out more about this family-run butcher.
Over the last fifty years HG Walter has become the butcher of choice for top chefs, thanks to its dedication to going above and beyond to source only the finest cuts of meat. We chat to managing director Adam Heanen to find out more about this family-run butcher.
‘We don’t want to be the biggest, we want to be the best at what we do,’ HG Walter managing director Adam Heanen says. It’s a simple goal in theory, but the reality of maintaining such high standards for over fifty years is, of course, no mean feat. The family-run butcher has sourced exceptional quality meat since it first opened, working with farms where welfare is put first before putting its expert butchery skills into action. It’s an attention to detail which has been rightfully recognised, earning it plaudits, award wins and a reputation as a go-to for top chefs at the country’s most renowned restaurants.
It was in 1972 that Adam’s father Peter Heanen first started the business, then a much smaller-scale operation centred around its Barons Court butcher in Hammersmith. In its early days it was staffed by Peter, his wife, his parents and one butcher, a compact team who brought their ethos of quality to life. ‘Dad was such a hard worker and put so much graft into the business,’ he says. ‘He raised the four of us for the majority of our lives as a single father, and had to balance the business with home life and school runs.’ With so much to juggle, there were, of course, only so many hours in the day, and HG Walter remained retail-focused until Peter’s four children – Adam and his siblings Daniel, Louise and Clare – became more involved in its day-to-day, later taking the business on (Peter, who is now seventy-four, still visits the team almost every day, Adam says). The Barons Court shop is thriving, but today most of HG Walter’s business comes from its work with restaurants, which began with the likes of The River Café and chef Phil Howard. ‘From an early stage we were working with those high calibre names and it made us raise our game,’ Adam says.
Today, its partnerships include Jeremy Lee’s Quo Vadis, Frog by Adam Handling, Heston Blumenthal’s three Michelin-starred The Fat Duck, The Grill by Tom Booton at the Dorchester and Olie Dabbous’ Hide. It’s a who’s who of the UK’s brightest culinary stars, drawn to HG Walter by its refusal to compromise when it comes to quality. Much of that can be put down to its meticulous sourcing – many of the farms it works with are small, often family-run, serious about sustainability and focused on free-range, predominantly native breeds, from Hampshire Duroc pigs to from Hereford and Aberdeen Angus cattle. It’s a whole carcass butcher, utilising every cut, and prides itself in particular on selling the best beef in the country, from its ribeye steaks to wagyu and dry-aged beef burgers. Before it arrives in the shop or is sent to restaurants, all of HG Walter's beef is aged in its Himalayan salt room for four to six weeks to deepen its flavour, part of its commitment to doing everything it can in house; HG's chefs also make all its stocks, sausages, burgers, bacon and pies.
Though most of its farms are UK-based, locality doesn’t come at the cost of quality. Where products are not made in the UK or better versions can be found elsewhere, the team will look overseas (around 10% of its sourcing is done this way, Adam says), sourcing Dutch veal, for example, or rabbit, quail and poussin from Anjou in France. ‘The most important thing is that what the customer gets on their plate in the restaurant is top quality,’ Adam explains. ‘First and foremost, if the UK offers a product that is unrivalled or unmatched anywhere in the world – which we are achieving with beef, lamb and pork breeds – then we will buy British, but with things like acorn-fed Ibérico pork, it’s just a completely different product to a domestic pig.’ It’s that discerning mindset which no doubt appeals to chefs, who are equally as keen to prioritise high-calibre cuts.
Of course, HG Walter doesn’t just cater to restaurants. Until 2020, online ordering made up a fraction of its trade (around 0.5%), but when we were plunged into lockdown and restaurants were forced to close, its website boomed, thanks in no small part to home cooks getting creative in the kitchen, turning to its recipe collections and stocking up on pantry staples. And though HG Walter’s goal might not be becoming the biggest in the business, it is certainly growing – turnover is on the up and the team is preparing to move into a new, 80,000 square foot warehouse to make room for expansion under one roof. ‘When things get bigger they can get worse, but I think we are getting better,’ Adam says. ‘Year after year we are trying to invigorate what we do.’
The ability to do that comes down to its relationships, Adam says, pointing to the connections with chefs and customers as what sets HG Walter apart from the competition, allowing them to keep a close eye on changing demand and shifting trends. That includes a recent move towards game, he says, as well as the inevitable impacts of rising prices across the industry. ‘It’s making people want to be more adventurous and open-minded,’ Adam says. ‘Instead of just having rib-eye and sirloin on, it’s opening people up to different cuts, more reasonably-priced cuts like onglet, bavette and flat iron, especially for lunchtime trade.’
It’s easy to see why HG Walter has become one of the country’s most respected butchers. Adam and his siblings have continued their father’s laser focus on quality, from the farms they work with to their in-house recipes, making sure their ethos is put into action every day. ‘Everything we do is quality-driven,’ Adam concludes. ‘From the beef ageing to making all of our own products with off-cuts, the emphasis on what we do day in, day out, is quality.’