More mild than wild when it comes to spicy food? Whether you’re always on the hunt for fiery challenges or baulk at the idea of chilli, here’s our quick guide to braving the burn without breaking a sweat.
More mild than wild when it comes to spicy food? Whether you’re always on the hunt for fiery challenges or baulk at the idea of chilli, here’s our quick guide to braving the burn without breaking a sweat.
We all have a friend who dives into ferocious curries without batting an eyelid, and another who steers clear of even the faintest hint of chilli. How much we can handle comes down to our tolerance for capsaicin, the chemical compound in chilli that triggers our skin's heat receptors and makes us think we’re overheating (we have more on the science of spice below). Our tolerance is thought to be shaped by a myriad of factors, including genetics (how many receptors we are born with, and how sensitive they are), how often we’re exposed to chilli and psychology; do we think the chilli-induced endorphine rush is worth the burn?
Luckily, it’s possible to increase our tolerance to chilli – below we've looked at how to get started if you're looking to dial up your capacity for capsaicin. We've recruited the help of Luke Farrell, the chef behind London's Plaza Khao Gaeng and Speedboat Bar, who celebrates the typically fiery cooking of southern Thailand. Having loved spicy food as long as he can remember and now regularly asked by diners how to safely venture through his fiery menus, he knows his stuff – and thinks that once we start eating more spicy food, it might be hard to stop. ‘People can absolutely build their spice tolerance,’ he nods. ‘It’s addictive, thanks to all the dopamine and that lovely chilli after-glow.’ Here's what you need to know.
Knowledge is power, they say – a mantra which might not often be said with spicy food in mind, but which we think is a good fit nonetheless. Being able to tell chillies apart will give you confidence when looking at menus and give you a clearer idea of your starter spice level (and what to try next). The Scoville scale measures the heat of chilli peppers based on their level of capsaicin; gentle pimiento peppers, for example, usually sit between zero and 500 Scoville heat units (SHU), while jalapeños sit between 2,500 and 10,000, Bird’s eye chillies between 50,000 and 100,000 and ferocious Carolina Reapers between 1.5 and 2.5 million. Having a point of reference makes moving up the scale much less risky (no leaping from jalapeños to Carolina Reapers, please).
While you acclimatise to more heat, there are also ways of assessing how hot chillies are before you take a bite – the bigger they are, the more likely they are to be milder, for example; smaller peppers often pack more of a punch. And though it's hard to pin down a definitive answer on dried versus fresh (Luke says dried chillies are often milder than their fresh counterparts), they do provide a different heat – fresh tend to give a burst of immediate fire, while dried are slower-burners with a lingering heat. And though some swear by indicators like wrinkled skin or stem shape when it comes to judging heat, we're not convinced enough to take the risk. Ultimately, you won't truly know until you tuck in – which brings us onto our next point.
Building your spice tolerance is all about baby steps – don't bowl into a restaurant on day one and order its most ferocious dish. Experimenting in your own kitchen, where you have much more control, is best – that might mean making paprika, chilli flakes and mild chilli powder a staple seasoning until you are used to more heat, before introducing something bolder like cayenne. Rather than adding spice directly to dishes (which can be hard to row back from if you overdo it) keep your heat on the side; arm yourself with hot sauces and chilli oils of varying temperatures and experiment, adding more over time until you're comfortable with it. From chilli oil on eggs to a dash of hot sauce in your favourite condiments (hot honey is a great place to start), there all sorts of ways to add spice. We drizzle chilli oil on our spiced carrot and red lentil soup, serve cauliflower fritters with a fermented chilli mayonnaise and finish a frozen tomato marinara margarita with chilli salt to add a kick of spice which isn't overwhelming.
When it comes to chillies themselves, start with milder choices and gradually use more until you can move onto spicier options. Much of the capsaicin in chillies is in the membrane – not the seeds – so removing this can make it milder. Essentially, if you're not confident with spice, a little goes a long way. ‘A really good way to get the flavour of chilli without all the heat is to crush it a little bit into a dish like soup, for example,’ Luke says. ‘The oil or liquid from the chilli will float on the top and you can have a spoonful of that, getting the flavour without too much heat.’ Have fun experimenting, and don't limit yourself by cuisine or format – chillies (be it fresh, dried, powdered or pickled) from around the world can be fruity, smoky, citrusy or floral, and, though it's wise to have an eye on the Scoville scale, you might enjoy certain ones more than others.
Even die-hard chilli fans sometimes need help cooling down a particularly spicy mouthful, but it’s all about knowing how. Reaching for an ice cold glass of water might feel sensible, but it will probably make things worse – capsaicin is oil-based, which means water will only spread its molecules around your mouth and make it feel worse. And although Luke isn’t a fan of using milk as a coolant, there is evidence it works – dairy's fats and proteins are much better equipped to take on capsaicin. It's why we often top spicier dishes with a dollop of yoghurt or sour cream, and why eating spice with fatty foods can mellow its effects.
Luke also suggests having a teaspoonful of sugar or sugar cube lined up if the heat becomes overpowering. ‘That’s what people in Thailand do,’ he says. ‘If you have sweet drinks with Thai food like iced lemon tea or lemonade, it really helps.’ Sugar is thought to neutralise the capsaicin molecules – the Scoville scale was actually created based on the level of sugar water needed to dilute chillies until the heat couldn't be tasted. With that in mind, ordering a carefully-chosen glass of wine with your dinner might be wise. ‘We often have people who think wine doesn’t go with Thai food,’ he says, 'but wines like Riesling, which have a residual sweetness, can really help with chilli kicks.’ Luke also recommends having fragrant herbs on hand (in particular the aniseed notes of Thai basil) to take the edge off the burn, as well as plenty of starchy goodness like rice, bread or potatoes, which can also take the edge off.
Feeling confident? Take on one of our very hottest recipes – a challenge even for the most hardcore of spice fans.