‘Nature does not hurry, yet everything is accomplished’ is a quote we’re more likely to associate with Instagram reels and motivational prints than an ancient Chinese philosopher. Yet the insight, attributed to Lao Tzu, is as true today as it was in China in 500 BC – and the merits of slowing down are arguably even more important. 

This is particularly true when travelling. All too often the excitement of being in a new place with so many sights, sounds and tastes to take in encourages one to rush around trying to ‘complete’ all of it. Yet looking is not the same as seeing, tasting is not the same as savouring. Whilst ‘Hurtigruten’ literally translates as ‘the fast route’, it doesn’t mean life in the slow lane isn’t an option.

Indeed, this is where the company’s Signature Voyages come in, with fewer but longer stops, in-depth lectures about each destination, and an elevated approach to Norwegian cuisine that allows passengers to literally savour the journey. While the Original Voyage (the Coastal Express) stops at 34 ports, the Signature Voyages offer around 14 stops, with more time in each, and tailored excursions for those who wish to explore more deeply.  The Svalbard Line takes in the remote Arctic Archipelago of Svalbard, home of the Midnight Sun from May to September. The North Cape line runs from September to April, and on a cruise of 11 days or longer promises (as in actually, legally, promises) the Northern Lights (departures 20 September and 31 March) reaching the dramatic North Cape, otherwise known as the ‘roof of Europe’. The Signature Voyages ship, MS Trollfjord is mostly manned by Norwegians, and the itineraries are inspired by their local knowledge and the expertise that comes from Hurtigruten having sailed Norway's coastline every year since 1893.

As well as the close-knit crew, both Signature Voyages carry a larger Expedition Team to enhance your insight into and experience of all you’ll see and taste along your journey. One might talk to you about the life cycle of whales, then organise a kayak excursion with local experts to get close and personal with these giants of the deep. A presentation on the Midnight Sun, the phenomenon where the sun never sets for a few months a year in the Arctic Circle, might precede a guided tour that takes you up Tromsø’s famous cable car for views across the so-called ‘Paris of the North’ and its surrounding mountains and islands. This same tour also includes the Arctic Cathedral, the Polaria aquarium where you can watch Arctic bearded and harbour seals, and more sightseeing – and you’re still back in time for cocktails and dinner before sunset, because during summer, it doesn’t set in Tromsø. The lectures and tours work in tandem. One has to see whales to grasp their timeless majesty, no matter how good the lecturer. And until you’ve experienced the energy boost that comes with sunshine at 1 in the morning, a talk about the Earth’s axis is meaningless.

Nowhere encapsulates this better than the Lofoten Islands, a series of stops which feature on both the Svalbard and the North Cape cruises. A subarctic archipelago, part of which is cloaked in darkness during December, it nevertheless benefits from a surprisingly warm climate thanks to the nearby Gulf Stream. Outdoor activities organised by the Expedition Team abound, therefore: an overnight stay in a local fisherman’s hut, a tour of Lofoten’s first brewery, a RIB ride that takes in sea eagles and Norway’s ‘Hawaiian Island’, lined with turquoise seas and white sandy beaches. Lofoten has been inhabited for millennia, so onboard lectures on Norway’s ancient civilisations can be brought vividly to life by a trip to the Kollhellaren Cave: a coastal cavern that houses cave paintings that are around 3,000 years old.

These are the merits of travelling more deeply, rather than more directly; of taking the less-is-more approach that Hurtigruten’s Signature Voyages offer. It’s not for everyone: many may prefer the Coastal Express and the constant stimulation of multiple stops. But as anyone who has ever taken a minute longer than they otherwise would to contemplate at painting, a person or even a scene from nature will have discovered, the more you look the more you see. 

This is particularly true of Norway, whose cultures and cuisines are so rich, and landscapes so breath-taking that even the smallest fishing village stands up to scrutiny. Take Røst for an example. Situated at Lofoten’s southernmost tip, Røst is home to the country’s largest puffin colony, the northern lights, the midnight sun, and a fishing legacy that inspired the Hurtigruten’s fine dining restaurant of the same name.

Of course, all of the restaurants you find on board the Signature Voyages boast traditional techniques and local ingredients which change over the course of the voyage. But Røst particularly is dedicated to the seafood on which Norway’s economic and culinary heritage has been built. A menu featuring king crabs, Norwegian scallops, seaweed and – of course – cod is illustrated with black and white photos of fisherman, their boats, and the stockfish (dried cod) that has sustained Norway for centuries. Lofotfiske ('Fishing in Lofoten') is an institution in Norway, in which thousands of fishermen converge to catch ‘skrei’ – the old Norse name for cod, which is the country’s oldest export.  

Øistein Nilsen, Hurtigruten’s Culinary Director, grew up in Northern Norway, and brings his childhood memories of fishing, making campfires and eating his catch to bear on board the cruises. 'I learnt early on how to appreciate food from the wilderness,' he enthuses. He is especially proud of the king crab selection you’ll find at Røst. 'We have an aquarium in the restaurant with live king crabs walking around inside. Guests can sit down to dinner, pick the one they want, and we’ll prepare it right away. It doesn’t get fresher than that!' After the meal, diners receive a souvenir card about their crab with details about where on the Norwegian coast it was caught and by who, signed by the head chef. 

Røst’s three-to-five course menu evolves over the course of the journey, which enables diners to forge ever deeper connections with the flora and fauna beneath the surface. There are cooking courses and fishing excursions available, for those who want to immerse themselves further by learning how to smoke or cure, or by catching a fish on a traditional fishing cutter dating back to the early 20th century. Unlike the Coastal Express, the food and drink offering on the Signature Voyages is all-inclusive. Those staying in suites can indulge in all three restaurants and the bar; those in regular cabins can indulge in to two restaurants and a bar, and are welcome to dine at Rost for a supplement. Of course, the mixologists are as committed as the chefs to their surrounding environment. Arctic gin from the Lyngen Alps, barrel-aged aquavit from the world’s most northern distillery and a larder of locally-sourced spirits and herbs feature in classic cocktails and in signature serves inspired by Viking legends or Norwegian history. 

'We want to highlight traditional and favourite recipes, while incorporating fresh new twists on the tastes,' Nilsen enthuses. He could be talking about their popular dish of smoked reindeer meat flatbreads with lingonberry aioli, or about their cocktail called Árran, which pays homage to the Norwegian love of building a campsite fire – something the crew recreate for passengers at one stop on the voyage. Árran is the Sami name for ‘bonfire in the tent’ – it’s used for warmth, cooking and to repel insects – and the smoky, herbaceous cocktail of that name recreates that feeling of being in fire’s circle of warmth and safety. Like every dish, every drink and indeed every day on board, they enable the customer to see, savour and feel immersed in Norway. They are, as Nilsen puts it, 'a fusion of history but also new experiences – exactly like the voyage itself!'