This north-south divide in Keralan culture can be traced back millennia. Southern areas of Kerala take cultural influence from early Christian Syrian settlers, as well as Chinese, British, Dutch and Portugese traders, who used cities like Kochi for spice trading. Here you will find fragrant, creamy stews with strong coconut flavours. Head further north, however, and there is a greater emphasis on spice, meat and Arabic flavours, with the so-called Malabar cuisine dominant. Thalassery biryani is a popular preparation here, and involves slow-cooking meat in masala spices, topping with kaima rice (a thinner variety) and sealing with a dough lid.

Spices remain the lingua franca of Keralan life and are used distinctively, often to add tang and fragrance rather than pure heat. Peter considers ginger, cardamom, asafoetida, chilli, tamarind and peppercorn to be the most important – most of which are produced locally before being sold on the streets of every village and town. ‘I love the atmosphere created by the shops when they open early in the morning – the smell of camphor, sandalwood and incense sticks,’ he explains. ‘It has a calming effect on the senses.’

Coconuts, which grow everywhere in Kerala, are another mainstay; their milk is used for sauces and their oil for frying off meat, fish and vegetables. The sap of the palm tree is also used, most notably to create an alcoholic drink known as Toddy.

The resources are perfect and over centuries the locals have developed delicious ways to make the most of what they have. ‘Recipes are passed down from mother to daughter,’ Peter explains, ‘so none of Kerala’s traditional dishes are lost.’ The role played by women in preserving and maintaining Kerala’s rich traditions is of the utmost importance. After all, this is a region with a packed calendar of festivities, and no Keralan occasion is complete without a feast of traditional dishes. Onam, a secular event that takes place around August and September each year, features a series of vegetarian dishes presented on plantain leaves (Sadhya), which are common in Kerala. During Pongola, women line the streets in their millions bearing earthenware pots of rice, jaggery and coconut, which they will take to the temple and offer to the gods in a show of ceremony.

Kerala provides an endless source of fascination for Peter, and from his evocative descriptions of his time there it is easy to see why. The unique blend of cultures, the diverse food scene and a sumptuous landscape add up to a recipe the chef looks destined to return to again and again. ‘I always love to go back to Kerala,’ he says. It could be for anything – holiday, research, meeting friends – but mostly to enjoy the natural features of the landscape as well as the distinguished cuisine.’