A longing for the Indonesian flavours of her childhood inspired Rahel Stephanie to become a chef, while her supper club Spoons provided the platform to show what she could do. Today, she cooks in kitchens around the world, driven by a mission to introduce us all to authentic Indonesian cooking.
A longing for the Indonesian flavours of her childhood inspired Rahel Stephanie to become a chef, while her supper club Spoons provided the platform to show what she could do. Today, she cooks in kitchens around the world, driven by a mission to introduce us all to authentic Indonesian cooking.
Home to over 17,000 islands – from the capital of Jakarta and tourist magnet of Bali to the tiny half-acre Simping Island – 279 million people and 300 native languages, Indonesia is vastly diverse. It’s not surprising, then, that its food is equally so; a vibrant tapestry which has been shaped by its cultural influences throughout history, from Chinese and Indian to Arabic and Dutch, and which is underpinned by ingredients like coconut milk, rice, lemongrass, turmeric and coriander. The difficulty in succinctly defining it might go some way to explain why Indonesian food has traditionally been under-represented in the UK, though its low emigration rates when compared to its neighbours also have a hand. Either way, it’s a cuisine which, in its authentic form, is harder to track down in the UK than that of Malaysia and the Philippines (both of which have become better understood in recent years) and other parts of Southeast Asia. It's something Rahel Stephanie quickly realised when she first moved to London in 2013 to study a fashion degree – she was inspired to fill that gap and, ten years on, she’s now thriving as a chef on a crusade: to spread the word about Indonesia’s food heritage.
Rahel has plenty of food memories from her childhood in Singapore (she, her mum and sister relocated there from Indonesia when she was young), but she says it isn’t the oft-told tale of growing up watching her family cook. ‘We were on the go quite a lot,’ Rahel says. ‘As a single mum, she was always picking us up from school and driving us from one lesson to the other. We were always on the road, so a lot of the food we had was on-the-go.’ Trips back to Indonesia proved more formative; Rahel fondly recalls cramming their suitcases with Indonesian ingredients, her great-aunt's rendang (Rahel returned to Indonesia to learn the recipe with her – ‘she was so excited, she came over to my mum’s apartment on a motorbike with a massive wok,’ she laughs) and Sunday dim sum feasts (which inspired an enduring affection for round restaurant tables). ‘Having a big meal with family was always my grandfather’s way of getting everyone together,’ she nods. ‘So that aspect of the importance of dining together has always been present since I was a kid.’
When Rahel moved to London in 2013, she felt the same longing for Indonesian cooking that she had while living in Singapore. ‘I was nineteen and I was like ‘Indonesian food is incredible, everywhere in the world should know about it, so there’ll definitely be Indonesian restaurants in London’,’ she laughs. ‘And when I came over here there weren't many. It all came down to that lack of presence – I had to cook whatever it was that I missed.’ What representations she could find were often ‘diluted, misrepresented or appropriated and called something else’, she says, pointing to satay, which is commonly associated with the peanut-based sauce of Thailand here, but actually has its roots in Indonesia, where it refers to skewered meats, of which there are around 200 different types. She also talks about tempeh, which in the UK has become a popular meat substitute in many restaurants, but in Indonesia was born out of poverty – while that difference in itself isn’t a problem, she says, she feels the lack of understanding about its origins is.
Cookbooks and YouTube tutorials became the bedrock of Rahel’s learning, initially for her own cooking and, later, for dinner parties with friends. In 2019, those parties morphed into a supper club: Spoons. Her first ‘super, super DIY’ club came at the end of that year; Rahel cooked gado gado (blanched peanut salad), a rice platter with tofu in a caramelised red sambal, and banana fritters and coconut ice cream for dessert. It was in many ways a lightbulb moment – Rahel says she had butterflies in her stomach, having hit on what she wanted to do (at this point she'd studied a Master's in fashion marketing and was working for an architect's firm). A second and then third successful Spoons outing followed, before Covid hit and Rahel pivoted to making meal boxes for the NHS, the home cooking craze of lockdown causing her social media following to balloon.
Fast forward to summer 2022 and Rahel was ready to go it alone; Spoons transitioned from a supper club to residencies and pop-ups in esteemed London restaurants like The Sea The Sea (as part of its Untapped series of guest chefs) and Cadet, where she worked alongside chef Jamie Smart (‘he’s an incredible chef – I admire him so much’), as Rahel found herself appearing on TV shows like Channel 4's Sunday Brunch. It seems natural that Rahel might be considering opening her own restaurant, but, when I ask if that's on the cards, it's a confident no. ‘There are a lot of reasons why I don’t want to, but mostly I love the flexibility.’ she says. ‘I love travelling to cook; in the past year I’ve cooked across Indonesia and Bali, Jakarta, Melbourne, Paris and Berlin. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be invited to cook in those cities, and I’m able to do that because I don’t have a full-time role.’
Since those first pangs of longing for Indonesian cooking, Rahel’s goal of celebrating the cuisine's cultural context hasn’t wavered ('I’m not against fusion food,’ she says, 'but what’s more important is to give back and recognise where the dish comes from'), and she is settled in a style which doesn’t strive for perfection. Instead, she prioritises vibrancy, soul, personality and, she grins, never letting people leave hungry. Whether it’s through residencies, Instagram or talks, Rahel hopes to pioneer a new understanding of Indonesian cooking. ‘I really enjoy speaking about the things I’m passionate about,’ she says. ‘It comes quite naturally. It initially started as cooking to spread awareness, but I’m now able to go to different things, like panels or on TV, to really achieve that mission, and I think that’s beautiful. It’s still surreal to me, I get a lot of imposter syndrome, but I look back at that first supper club to see how far I’ve come – I just need to remind myself of that every now and then.’