5 dishes from the past we think deserve a comeback

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5 dishes from the past we think deserve a comeback

by Great British Chefs8 October 2024

Happy to leave the past in the past, or always up for a retro trend? We're firmly in the second camp – here are five old-school dishes we'd love to see revived.

5 dishes from the past we think deserve a comeback

Happy to leave the past in the past, or always up for a retro trend? We're firmly in the second camp – here are five old-school dishes we'd love to see revived.

Great British Chefs is a team of passionate food lovers dedicated to bringing you the latest food stories, news and reviews.

Great British Chefs is a team of passionate food lovers dedicated to bringing you the latest food stories, news and reviews as well as access to some of Britain’s greatest chefs. Our posts cover everything we are excited about from the latest openings and hottest food trends to brilliant new producers and exclusive chef interviews.

Great British Chefs is a team of passionate food lovers dedicated to bringing you the latest food stories, news and reviews.

Great British Chefs is a team of passionate food lovers dedicated to bringing you the latest food stories, news and reviews as well as access to some of Britain’s greatest chefs. Our posts cover everything we are excited about from the latest openings and hottest food trends to brilliant new producers and exclusive chef interviews.

Trends come and go so swiftly that it's impossible to tell what will have its moment next. Who'd have guessed tinned fish would become quite so stylish? Or that egg flights would be a thing? The speed at which we move through trends makes it tricky to keep on top of them all, but also means there's something new to try just around the corner. And while there are certain foods we're happy to see confined to the annals of history – the experimental seventies are responsible for more than a few – there are others we'd be delighted to see pop back up on menus.

That's the inspiration for this list – below, we've picked out five dishes from decades past that we reckon should have another chance to shine. We've worked with food historian and author Eleanor Barnett and Firmdale Hotels' executive chef Joe Fox to bring the list together – they've been overseeing a trio of food history supper clubs at the group's Number Sixteen hotel in South Kensington (including one in November which will transport you to the 1940s, and another in March all about the 1970s). We hope our picks stir up memories and get you thinking about your own culinary comeback wish-list. 

Food historian Eleanor Barnett (left) and chef Joe Fox (right)

Nesselrode cream

A type of set cream or blancmange, Nesselrode cream was traditionally made with chestnuts and dried fruit in the colder months during the Victorian era. Eleanor says the dessert was initially named after Russian diplomat Count Karl von Nesselrode, having been invented by his chef Mony (though he was later accused of copying the dessert from another chef, and has since largely been written out of its history). The cream evolved into a pudding made with chestnut purée, which spread to America, and in the 1940s a Nesselrode pie, made with chestnuts, liquor and fruit, became popular there. Today, however, it's hard to track down any versions of Nesselrode. 

'It's hard to know exactly why it fell out of favour,' Eleanor says. 'Many fabulous dishes have done so as our collective taste changes. Perhaps it disappeared as the fad for desserts served in elaborate moulds died out, perhaps it's because it is so laborious to prepare the sweet chestnuts, or perhaps because our Christmas feasts have slimmed down over the years. Most of us will now only make one Christmas pudding or Christmas cake rather than a whole table of desserts to sample, as would have been the case in the Victorian era.'

Devilled eggs

We'll admit that devilled eggs are already making a comeback, but they still have something of a bad reputation we think they deserve to shake off. Eggs have been seasoned and stuffed throughout history (including with spicy sauces in ancient Rome), but in the UK devilled eggs have become synonymous with the 1970s, when they became the dinner party canapé of choice. Hard-boiled eggs which are peeled, cut in half and refilled with a spiced, yolky paste (the spicy element gives them the devilled name), they're absolutely ripe for modern twists. 

Our recipe adds hot mustard to the yolks and flavours them with smoky paprika, for example, while our vibrantly pink take is the result of overnight marination in beetroot liquid – they're then piped with a yolky garlic and cayenne filling. A perfect base for big flavours, they're moreish and savoury (and protein-packed, if that's important to you) – Joe recommends trying them with potted shrimp, miso, sriracha or a katsu curry sauce.

Duchess potatoes

Spuds which are both golden and crispy and buttery smooth at the same time – what's not to love? Pommes duchesse – or Duchess potatoes – are bite-sized delights which are essentially seasoned mash piped into swirls and baked. The result is a crispy exterior and super smooth filling – think individual versions of a shepherd's or cottage pie topping. They're thought to date back as far as the eighteenth century in France, and became increasingly popular in the UK throughout the twentieth century, when they were often served at special occasions. TV chef Fanny Craddock was a fan of the method, and used them as a base in several recipes – in one, she even dyes the mashed potato green. We'll be sticking to their natural hue, but we won't stop you if you're curious...

Orange en surprise

A little-known citrus dessert, orange en surprise was so popular during the early twentieth century that it's believed to have been the final dessert served aboard the Titanic, and we're surprised it's not more widespread today. Joe says he first stumbled on the recipe in an old Cordon Bleu cookbook, Dinner Parties, and was inspired to bring it back to life at the supper clubs. In a nutshell, it's an orange semifreddo served in a hollowed out orange, with a dollop of whipped cream on top. It's simple, doesn't need a long list of ingredients and there's scope for twists whatever the season – spike it with other fruit juices or alcohol for a refreshing summer dessert, or pair it with cosy, mulled flavours like cinnamon when winter rolls around. 

Faggots

The nose-to-tail movement has encouraged us to embrace offal, but faggots still have a way to go before they're part of our weekly meals. A traditionally British dish, faggots are our answer to meatballs, made from minced off-cuts and offal mixed with herbs – you can use pork, lamb, venison (Sally Abe serves hers with sweetcorn) or mutton (James Mackenzie braises his with ale). Rather than being intimidating, Joe says faggots are actually a great introduction to offal.

'Faggots are a great way of disguising the strong flavour of offal, which can be too much for some,' he says. 'They also come in the familiar shape of a meatball so it's also more friendly and appealing for many of us.' He admits traditional recipes can be complex and include hard-to-find ingredients like caul fat, but says there are shortcuts to make them more accessible. 'Finely chop or mince lungs, heart, liver and kidney and mix into regular mincemeat with spices, sweated onions and breadcrumbs,' he advises. 'Shape into balls, chill to set and brown off in a frying pan with a drop of oil before gently poaching in stock for fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve with lashings of gravy.'

In dinner party planning mode? Our recipe collection is right this way.