We’re of the opinion that when visiting a new city, you should always begin by sampling the traditional local fare, and so our time in Gdańsk began with a generous lunch at Gdański Bowke, a harbourside restaurant specialising in classic Polish dishes and beers. A beer-soaked pork knuckle, or golonka, with some brilliantly sweet cabbage proved to be the highlight alongside a rich stew of mixed meats, known as bigos. This was also where we first sampled Gdańsk’s signature spirit Goldwasser, an herbal liqueur containing flakes of gold leaf.

An even more personal experience of traditional Polish cookery (though this time with an occasional French accent) came the following day at the more suburban Winne Grono. Owner Arkadiuz Onasch was a wonderful and memorable host, guiding us through a range of dishes with accompanying stories and details. Dishes on offer included a garlic-forward goose tartare, veal liver parfait and a wonderful bowl of zurek (a soup made from smoked meats and rye). Winne Grono is also a must for any alcohol enthusiasts, as Onasch crafts his own traditional Gdańsk liqueurs including the likes of kurfürsten and krambambuli, which you can also buy bottles of before leaving!

Traditional Polish restaurants are just one side of Gdańsk’s food scene though. Increasing numbers of modern Polish restaurants are opening in the city, showcasing how the cuisine can be elevated. These include Maniera in the centre of town, which serves a menu that aims to bring twists to recipes passed down through generations and showcase local ingredients in a different way. Polish crayfish was turned into flavoursome croquettes while an impressive range of desserts included a dramatically presented vanilla mousse fashioned into the shape of a raspberry.

On the other side of the river, meanwhile, there’s Zafishowani, where local seafood takes centre stage. Marinated Baltic herring comes served on top of brioche baked in house, while a stand-out smoked beef tartare was topped with local mushrooms and crispy potato chips. The head chef acknowledges that everything on the menu at Zafishowani is still very much grounded in tradition, but through modern presentation and techniques they’re aiming to show new ways in which dishes can be enjoyed.

One of the more recent additions to the city’s dining scene is the Montownia Food Hall in Gdańsk’s shipyard. Housed in a former U-boat production hall, it brings together dozens of different food vendors all in one place, offering everything from Korean street food and ramen through to burgers, pizzas and gelato. Whilst not the place to go if you’re looking for Polish food in Gdańsk, it’s the perfect spot for a quick meal if visiting the shipyard but also a very clear sign of the progression of the city’s broader food scene.

Aside from the sit-down meals we enjoyed in Gdańsk, another particular highlight was a late-morning stop off at café-cum-bakery Eklerownia, which has two sites in the town centre. As the name suggests, éclairs are very much the focus here, with a huge range of different flavours on offer. These include the likes of rhubarb, pistachio and chocolate, as well as more unusual combinations such as Parmesan with raspberry and even a truffle-flavoured number. We’re told by the young owners that the motivation behind setting up Eklerownia in 2020 was a lack of good éclairs on the market in Poland. That’s clearly now no longer the case in Gdańsk – every éclair we sampled was beautifully made and cleverly thought through (including the divisive truffle-flavoured one).

For foodies wanting to learn a little more about what goes into the traditional dishes served in Gdańsk, a class at cookery school Skōma is a brilliant place to start. A range of workshops are available but we opted for a lesson in Kashubian cookery, where we were guided through the process of making a goose tartare, traditional stuffed cabbage rolls and also zurek. There’s also then the bonus of being able to tuck into your creations, once you’ve finished!

Although distinctly smaller than neighbouring Gdańsk, the seaside resort of Sopot is still a popular tourist destination, thanks to its long sandy beach and the beautiful landscape surrounding the city. Acres of woodland and hills are just a short walk away, meaning it’s easy to escape the busy city centre for a few hours. When it comes to Sopot’s fledgling culinary scene, there isn’t necessarily as much variety as there is in Gdańsk, but there are still plenty of restaurants well worth visiting. Check out our recommendations below.

Boasting a beautiful view out over Sopot’s long pier and a stylish modern dining room, Polskie Smaki (which translates as ‘Polish flavours’) may not be where you’d expect to find food that’s rooted in tradition but its menu of small plates is heavily influenced by the local cuisine. In fact, if you’re wanting to better understand Kashubian food, executive chef Marek Soczewka’s menu is the perfect place to start. Expect appetisers including a selection of Kashubian cheeses and then dive into main courses which shine a light on the region’s finest produce, including wonderful local duck and venison.

If you’re lucky enough to be visiting Sopot while the sun is shining (as we were!), there’s no better spot to sit outside with a beer or two and indulge some local seafood than at Bar Przystań. Located right on the beach looking out over the sea, this is somewhat of a Sopot Institution and was packed to rafters when we visited on a weekday afternoon. Don’t come to Bar Przystań expecting refined, modern plates of food; their menu is all about simply cooked but tasty fish and seafood. A selection of herring, served in a variety of different ways (from pickled to curried) was a great way to start, whilst their speciality fisherman’s soup is not to be missed. For something a little more filling, Bar Przystań also serves a selection of fried fish, including local Baltic flounder when available.

As the name suggests, there’s a distinct French influence going on at L’Entre Villes both in terms of the cookery and service. Dishes including scallops with parsley purée and sea vegetables, and duck breast with beetroot and potato arrived under cloches, while a chocolate bombe was covered with warm raspberry sauce at the table. There’s still a very clear Polish heart to food here but it’s probably the most refined food we experienced on the trip. L’Entre Villes isn’t a restaurant for every day but for those looking for a celebratory, high-end meal, you’ll struggle to find better in Sopot.

Located just a short walk away from the beach, Fisherman is a restaurant from award-winning chef Rafał Koziorzemski which, unsurprisingly, serves up a seafood-led menu. Either choose from the varied à la carte menu or opt for Fisherman’s tasting menu, as we did. A particular highlight of our meal was Rafał’s own take on paprikash, using scallop, foie gras and rice, finished with lovage oil, whilst it was also brilliant to see a wine list which championed Polish wines.

As you can probably tell, there’s a lot to explore when it comes to food in these two Kashubian cities, but if you’re willing to get stuck into the local cuisine and venture to some of our suggestions above, you won’t leave disappointed.