Take a look at Jonathan Vardon's recommendations for how to pair classic wines with contemporary trends – and dishes.
Clay amphora, wooden barrel or stainless steel tank? Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache or Marselan (their child)? Flute, coupe or tulip? Wine has been crafted for hundreds of years and, over the centuries there has been immense change – big discoveries and smaller fine tuning. From innovative materials and technologies that improve the wine itself or our enjoyment of it, to new grape varieties, wine-making methods and experiences to explore, our beloved grape juice has been evolving over time to keep pace with the constantly shifting demands of both drinkers and the climate.
As an avid fan of the wacky and wonderful, I’ve been doing a little digging, chatting, reading and listening. The result? Here are a few ideas that combine some classic wine styles with more contemporary ways to consume and enjoy this ancient art form.
Single-serve wine bars are gaining popularity, with some of the most frequented venues boasting Enomatic machines which dispense rotating selections. These machines give bars the ability to keep wine fresh while serving various volumes by the glass, broadening the available range. Wine-lovers and the wine-curious are then able to try plenty of different styles before committing to a full bottle. If you find something you like, these bars often also retail the bottles so it’s a great way to try before you buy.
Try something sightly unexpected by opting for a Rhône red blend that’s not from the Rhône valley. Penfolds Bin 138’s mixed fruit profile and well behaved tannins are a crowd pleaser on their own and are gorgeous with a burger.
The UK loves New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc: it’s quite literally the best selling white grape variety, and there’s a lot to love about the style. However, there are countless grape varieties and so many wine styles that it would be a shame not to explore more of them. Swap out your New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc for something with similar seafood-friendly acidity and bright, ripe fruit. Spanish Albariño would do the trick, as would Portuguese Viñho Verde. And if you must stay close to New Zealand, exploring Australian alternatives is the way to go.
Penfolds Bin 51 is a dry Australian Riesling and it is bright, fruity and brisk. High acidity makes it a dream with fish dishes and allows it to be wonderfully refreshing served with salmon tartare.
Set yourself free from the rigid rules of red for winter and whites for summer. Try matching the richness of your meals to the ripeness of fruit and weight of your wines. Now that it’s warming-up outside and you’re yearning for a red, go for it. Pick something from a cooler climate with more red fruit aromas as these will be more lively in style and well suited to the fresher foods for this time of year.
Penfolds Bin 128 is made from Shiraz and this expression, from the more temperate Coonawarra, is bright with acidity and red fruit, complemented by more savoury notes like black olive. This is lovely served with a beetroot and feta salad.
Alternatively, when winter does return, or we get a random cold spell, you can choose a heavier white wine which will stand up to lighter meats like pork and lamb as long as they’re not too fatty.
Penfolds Bin 311 is made from Chardonnay which has been fermented in barrels and matured in oak, giving the wine notes of vanilla and cedar, as well as the additional weight and texture needed to pair with richer foods.
Summer is on the way and so is barbecue season. Hurrah! There will, no doubt, be many burgers, hot dogs, chicken pieces and cobs of corn cooked over flames in the coming months. If you’d like to bring something different to your alfresco dining experience, try smoking some duck. Whether you like your duck jointed or served Cantonese-style with cucumber, spring onion and hoisin sauce, choose a big red packed with ripe fruit.
Penfolds 389 combines the blackcurrant, cassis flavours and firm tannins of Cabernet Sauvignon with the brambly dark fruit, black pepper of more softly structured Shiraz for a delicious red that will be a treat with the rich flavours of duck.
Newer generations are drinking less alcohol and are generally more health conscious than previous generations – be it their own or the planet’s health. One way to focus on quality rather than quantity is to adopt their re-named 'zebra striping' trend, drinking a non-alcoholic beverage for every drink of alcohol. The habit keeps you hydrated and works to prevent the dreaded hangover. Be mindful when selecting your stripes as a sweeter beverage will make your next sip of wine more sour than you remember.
Penfolds Bin 2 is a ripe and juicy red wine made primarily from Shiraz supported by a touch of Mataro, also known as Monastrell or Mourvèdre. This blend is made in a softer, juicier style – not too heavy, nor too light – its profile will work across seasons and cuisines, equally at home with lighter meat dishes and richer poultry meals.
Roses may only bloom is certain months of the year and some people may only drink rosé during the warmer months. Personally, I think you should be free to enjoy pink wine whatever the weather may be. The pale Provençal style is wildly popular and while it is well suited to the lighter dishes of summer – it would be lovely with pale meats all year round. Not only that – there are bolder styles, like those from Bandol or the darker Grenache-based Spanish styles that would stand up to lamb and lean steak. Aside from the still wines, you can’t possible go wrong with pink Champagne for almost any occasion. Try the recently awarded Penfolds Champagne Rosé.
Let’s bring it back to those lovely modern wine bars that are popping up all over cities near you. Aside from offering vast selections of wines by the glass they are appealing to new crowds by creating more casual spaces in which to learn about and enjoy wine. Some of these more approachable spaces feature shared, long tables and bench seating (a bit like Wagamama’s), others have more relaxed or no staff uniforms at all. This is all aimed at making wine more accessible to more people. So whether you want a modern pét-nat orange wine or a traditional claret these bars have you covered.
Try the Bordeaux-style blend of Penfolds FWT 585. Crafted from grapes sourced from across the region – modern winemaking meets a classic style – the result is a fruit-forward red with wonderful structure.