You've heard of Veganuary, but how much do you know about Regenuary? We take a look at a movement which is challenging us to think more carefully about where our food comes from.
You've heard of Veganuary, but how much do you know about Regenuary? We take a look at a movement which is challenging us to think more carefully about where our food comes from.
Every January, plenty of us kick off the new year vowing to give something up, be it a permanent lifestyle shift inspired by an ambitious New Year's Resolution, or a temporary Christmas indulgence-induced sacrifice until the end of the month. When it comes to short-term challenges, Dry January and Veganuary are perhaps the best-known; in 2023 over 700,000 people signed up to a plant-based diet alone for Veganuary, which has soared in popularity since being founded in 2014. But if you're not willing to cut out meat and dairy entirely or just want to give extra thought to what we eat and drink more generally, there's another January test you probably haven't heard of which is fast building a following: Regenuary.
Concerned by meat production methods in the UK, Glen Burrows had been a vegetarian for twenty-five years before he realised that an entirely meat-free lifestyle didn't suit him. He began to reintroduce meat to his diet and questioned whether plant-based swaps were always better for the environment. An early social media posting challenging the sometimes simplistic messaging around the benefits of veganism on the planet reached over a million people and sparked a debate around the nuances of how what we eat impacts the planet. In 2020, he coined the term Regenuary and founded the annual, month-long movement to encourage us to learn more about regenerative farming and source as much of what we eat as possible from regenerative farmers.
Following Veganuary (and any challenge which revolves around eliminating certain foods) is pretty simple, but getting on board with for Regenuary is, by its nature, more complex. After all, regenerative agriculture itself can be difficult to define, and is full of nuances which shift from farm-to-farm. In essence, it's an approach to farming which aims to not only not damage the environment, but to improve it. Chemical fertilisers and tillage are avoided – instead, the aim is to disturb the land as little as possible and instead work with nature to protect it. Common regenerative practices include rotational grazing, mixed crop rotation, limiting soil disturbance and composting, methods underpinned by a focus on all things soil health. The goal is that the land and water are allowed to regenerate, rather than depleting natural resources.
While regenerative farming has been around for some time, it's only in the last ten years that it's been more widely adopted and even more recently that it has started to find its way into mainstream conversation. That's been helped by innovative chefs, who are beginning to prioritise a regenerative model when it comes to their suppliers and even their own land. In Cornwall, chef Dan Cox's Crocadon restaurant is at home on a 120-acre organic farm, which Dan first began cultivating in 2017. He speaks about the importance of powering up the soil, increasing its microbial life with compost teas and manure (he compares soil to a bank account – the more you take from it, the less you have to work with), and focuses on crop diversity, self-sustaining perennial varieties and rotational grazing. He's not alone, with chefs like David Taylor at Hampton Manor and Jan Ostle and Mary Wilson at Wilsons in Bristol also impressing the need for a regenerative approach. Michelin's Green Stars, meanwhile, have also brought a renewed importance to taking sustainability seriously. Regenuary is backed by chefs including Adam Gray and Douglas McMaster, as well as food writers and critics and bodies including The Soil Association.
Essentially, Regenuary asks us to source as much of our food as possible from regenerative producers and farmers, a goal which will inevitably require some research on our part. It involves buying from British suppliers, focusing on producers with shorter supply chains (farm shops and farmer's markets are usually good places to start), nose-to-tail eating to reduce food waste, an awareness of limiting food miles and much more. When it comes to meat, seeking out entirely pasture-fed animals is important, and where regenerative is not possible, Regenuary encourages us to instead look for produce marked as organic and biodynamic. When it comes to restaurants, some chefs are introducing themed menus to mark the month, including Tommy Banks, who is running a Regenuary set menu at his The Abbey Inn in North Yorkshire until the end of January, featuring in-house cured charcuterie and vegetables from its garden. The Gladwin Brothers, meanwhile, are offering a similar menu across their sites until the end of the month.
We could all do more to consider where our food comes from, and the impact our choices have on the planet, whatever our diet. By spending a few minutes researching local regenerative producers and getting to grips with the benefits of regenerative agriculture, we can make simple swaps that will ensure we are doing all we can to cherish the environment.