English wine’s burgeoning reputation means it has never been easier to celebrate the best of British. With that in mind, we headed to Kent to visit Gusbourne and spend a day at The Nest, exploring its vineyards, meeting its wine-makers and tasting its award-winning vintage wines.
English wine’s burgeoning reputation means it has never been easier to celebrate the best of British. With that in mind, we headed to Kent to visit Gusbourne and spend a day at The Nest, exploring its vineyards, meeting its wine-makers and tasting its award-winning vintage wines.
As a nation of wine-lovers, we’ve traditionally stocked up on bottles from the likes of France, Spain, Italy and Chile, but understood much less about those made closer to home. That’s fast-changing, though – now home to over 900 vineyards, English wine’s profile has rocketed, racking up plaudits from around the world. Though it’s still a relative newcomer to the field (around ten million English wine bottles were sold in 2022, compared to 326 million of Champagne alone), it’s fair to say English wine is flourishing.
Kent has been particularly fruitful, with its warm, dry climate earning it a new nickname as the wine garden of England. The county is home to Gusbourne, which has been in business just shy of twenty years but has already forged a stellar reputation for its vintage sparkling wines, collecting a clutch of awards (it’s the only three-time winner of the International Wine and Spirits Competition English Wine Producer of the Year) and becoming a top pick among Michelin-starred chefs. Given the long, slow process of wine-making, it’s an impressive track record. Today, we’re visiting its food and wine experience The Nest for an Estate Tour, an idyllic day made up of a tour of the vineyard, a wine tasting and a three-course meal. Just under forty minutes from London by train, or a quick taxi ride from Ashford International, we’re there in no time, greeted with a generous glass of its Brut Reserve 2019. A mix of its Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes, it has a citrus and orchard fruit-heavy palate and hints of orange, pear and stone fruits and, we’re told, is brilliant with breakfast. It’s a beautiful wine – and if you don’t believe us, then perhaps you’ll trust the royals; it was chosen by King Charles as the coronation sparkling wine.
With our glasses in hand, our tour guide begins to lead us through the vines, which, when we visit in April, are in budburst, emerging from their winter dormancy. From June, the 250,000 vines will spring into a sea of lush greenery. As we explore, it’s explained to us how the terroir is perfectly suited to vine-growing, a tricky process which needs patience and precision in abundance. Gusbourne is in one of the driest parts of the country, and the vines slope down towards the coast (it’s a clear day and we can see Camber Sands wind turbines on the horizon six miles away), providing a vital steady breeze. The Kent vineyards have sandy and clay soils, while those in Sussex, Gusbourne’s second site, are chalky and flint. It’s a level of detail most of us are oblivious to, but to wine-makers it’s essential. The team grows thirty-seven clones of Gusbourne’s three main grapes and, over time, they have fine-tuned where each thrives, when within the season they should be harvested and how they enhance one another, impressively balancing science and art.
We pass picnic benches backed by forest, surrounded by wildflowers and overlooking the vines – it’s easy to understand the popularity of their summer picnics – before reaching a table set rather romantically in the middle of the greenery. There, we sample the 2022 Rosé, full of strawberry and citrus notes. Though many of Gusbourne’s wines are cork-aged, this isn’t – instead, it’s made for the moment, we’re told. It’s one example of Gusbourne’s ethos that its wines are for life’s everyday celebrations – rather than holding on to bottles of sparkling wine for Christmas or a wedding anniversary, as we might tend to, the team believes they are perfect for life’s day-to-day occasions.
Armed with knowledge and ready for lunch, we head back to The Nest, stopping briefly to explore the winery and barrel room on our way. Though there are 900 vineyards around the UK, there are far fewer wineries (around 200), and being able to go from vine to bottle in one place remains special. Back in our private tasting room, we begin by trying the Blancs de Blancs 2018, which we’re told is the truest expression of Gusbourne’s terroir. It has Chardonnay aromas of green apple and citrus, and a distinctly seaside feel – it pairs beautifully with fish and chips by the sea and freshly-shucked oysters. Next is the 2018 Blanc de Noirs (thanks to its warm summer, 2018 was a bumper year for English wine), billed as a sparkling wine for red wine lovers. It delivers; its depth and richness showing the range to be found in sparkling wine. Though Gusbourne might be known for its fizz, 5% of its bottles are still, including Guinevere 2020, a Chardonnay with aromas of lemon, green apple and toasted nuts, which we enjoy with our main course.
The attention to detail certainly isn’t limited to the wine – though Gusbourne has its own in-house chefs, it also works with world-class names for its private chef dinner experiences (Ynyshir’s Gareth Ward among them). Our meal starts with delicate beetroot-cured salmon, with egg yolk, pickled beetroot dill emulsion and seaweed crisp, before a main course of wild garlic-stuffed chicken, confit chicken bon bon, pomme purée, Gusbourne cream sauce and pancetta crisp. It’s all excellent, and it’s clear generosity is the order of the day – from the plentiful wine pours to the ample plates, there’s hardly room for our dessert, a layered rhubarb and custard treat, with pistachio and milk crisp, paired with a refreshingly light and fruity dessert wine RS180.
During our visit, we’re told the tours often turn casual visitors into loyal customers, and, as we begin our journeys home, it’s easy to see why. Getting to know Gusbourne’s ethos, understanding the meticulous attention to detail required for English wine-making and tasting the final product means we inevitably leave invested. Their generosity of spirit shines through and, at the simplest level, it’s a really beautiful place to while away the day. Whether it’s a summer picnic in the vines, a romantic lunch for two or a private chef experience, it’s a fantastic setting to mark special occasions and, more importantly, life’s everyday celebrations.