English peas with nasturtium ice cream and pea velouté

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Josh Overington's pea starter is an exceptional example of how to use textural and temperature contrast in a dish. The interplay between the warm velouté, cold nasturtium ice cream and crunchy savoury granola transforms these simple, seasonal ingredients into something special. Naturally, this dish is best cooked in the height of summer, but the pea velouté and savoury granola are fantastic micro-recipes to use year-round.

First published in 2019

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Nasturtium ice cream

  • 500g of whole milk
  • 250g of double cream
  • 35 nasturtium leaves, stems are fine as well
  • 75g of liquid glucose
  • 25g of dextrose
  • 40g of non-fat milk powder
  • 50g of caster sugar
  • 1 pinch of sea salt
  • 3.5g of pectin powder
  • 20 nasturtium petals

Pea velouté

Savoury granola

Garnish

Equipment

  • Food processor or blender

Method

1
For the ice cream, combine the milk, cream and nasturtium leaves together in a large bowl and leave to infuse in the fridge for 24 hours
2
The next day, pour the milk and cream infusion into a saucepan, add the glucose and simmer for 30 seconds. Strain through a fine sieve and return the mixture to a saucepan over a medium heat
  • 75g of liquid glucose
3
Combine all the dry ingredients for the ice cream in a bowl and mix together. Slowly whisk the dry ingredients into the cream infusion until combined, then transfer to a blender. Add the nasturtium petals and blend for 30 seconds, then rapidly chill the mixture in a bowl or tray set over iced water to stop the mixture overcooking and to keep the colour. Pour into a container and freeze until solid
4
Preheat an oven to 200ºC/gas mark 5 and heat a deep pan of oil to 180ºC. Line a baking tray with paper towels
  • 200ml of oil, for deep-frying
5
Deep-fry the wild rice until the kernels pop, then drain and cool on paper towels
6
In a large bowl, mix the cooled rice with the remaining nuts, seeds and Espelette pepper. Add the garlic and lemon zest and combine, then season with salt
7
Line a baking tray with baking paper. Add the glucose to the seed and nut mix and combine. Transfer to the baking tray and spread in an even layer on the sheet, then bake for 20 minutes. Once cooked and crisp, allow the granola to cool, then stir the mixture to break up any larger pieces. Store in an airtight container until ready to serve – there will be plenty leftover, but this is a great snack on its own or added to salads and other dishes
  • 80g of liquid glucose
8
Bring 2 small pans of water to the boil. Blanch the peas for 40 seconds in one and the spinach leaves for 5 seconds in the other. Cool both rapidly in iced water to maintain their bright, fresh colour, then strain
9
Add the peas and spinach leaves to a blender and add just enough vegetable stock to cover. Don’t add too much to begin with – you can always add more if required. Blend on full speed until very smooth; you’re looking for a loose purée texture. Season with sea salt to taste and then pass the mixture through a fine sieve and set aside to cool. Once cooled, you can store this in the fridge for a day or so until ready to use
  • 625ml of vegetable stock
  • sea salt, to taste
10
When you’re ready to plate, gently warm the pea velouté, taking care not to let it boil as it will split and lose colour. Whip the nasturtium ice cream in a blender. In a deep-sided bowl, place 1 tablespoon of savoury granola. On top, 1 tablespoon of the fresh, raw peas. Add a rocher of the nasturtium ice cream on top of the peas. Garnish the ice cream with a nasturtium petal and leaf, then pour the velouté around the ice cream. Serve immediately, before the ice cream melts

Josh Overington opened Le Cochon Aveugle in York with just £800 in the bank, bringing exciting modern French cooking to the city of York and building his platform as a chef. Today, he puts his elegant spin on traditional Yorkshire cooking at his Michelin-starred fine dining restaurant Mýse.

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