Gooseberry gin

In a shady spot in the corner of my garden, a gooseberry bush is spilling out of its wooden planter; groaning under the weight of ripe fruit. I couldn’t bring myself to prune when I could see the beginnings of so many immature and unripe fruits, but I’ve learnt my lesson for next year. My wild, untamed and thorny bush (no laughing at the back) has torn holes through a favourite lightweight summer skirt, because gooseberries, for all their tangy appeal, are an absolute b*$***d to pick. They’re worth the trouble though (depending on the size of the plant, I recommend a pair of gardening gloves or plate armour) if you’re as much of a fan of their complex tartness as I am.

Gooseberries are a revelation in dishes both savoury and sweet. A simple gooseberry compote can be spooned over plain yoghurt, or served as a tart foil to the fattiness of roast pork or duck. There are endless ways to preserve gooseberries to extend their sunshiny flavour well beyond their short summer season. I like to pickle them to serve with pan-fried mackerel or pork rillettes, but my current favourite goosegog vehicle is to make gin. Made in exactly the same way as sloe or damson gin, gooseberry’s earlier season means you won’t have to wait until the depths of winter to enjoy it.

Once your gooseberry gin has steeped for long enough, your gin-soaked fruit can be turned into gooseberry gin jam. Simply put the strained gooseberries in a saucepan with 75ml of water (or you can use some of the gin instead, if you like) over a medium-high heat. Stir intermittently for about 10 minutes, or until the fruit has softened and started to break down. Add 450g granulated or caster sugar (that’s equal weights of fruit and sugar), the juice of a lemon and reduce the heat. Stir over a low heat until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and bring up to a rapid boil for about 10 minutes, or until the jam reaches 105°C/220°F on a sugar thermometer. Skim any scum off the top, before decanting the jam into sterilised jars. Seal and store the jam in a cool, dark place. Unopened jars should last for a year, but once opened, consume within 6 weeks.