Kimchi-cured sea trout with pickled sea vegetables and wild garlic mayonnaise

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This beautiful, vibrant plate of cured sea trout comes adorned with lightly pickled sea herbs such as samphire and sea aster, plus dots of verdant wild garlic mayo and golden fried wheatberries for crunch. A delightful way to kick off any meal, all the elements can be prepared in advance which means less time in the kitchen when you have friends and family over.

First published in 2021

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Sea trout

Pickled sea vegetables

  • 250ml of white wine
  • 250ml of white wine vinegar
  • 250ml of water
  • 1 tbsp of pickling spice
  • 1/2 tbsp of runny honey
  • 1/4 tbsp of caster sugar
  • 1 handful of sea herbs, washed – Will uses a mixture of samphire, rock samphire, sea rosemary and sea aster

Wild garlic mayonnaise

Wheatberries

  • 500g of wheatberries, or farro
  • vegetable oil, for frying

Equipment

  • Blender

Method

1
The pickled sea herbs and wild garlic oil for the mayonnaise can both be made several days in advance, so begin with those. For the wild garlic oil, blend the wild garlic leaves and oil in a Thermomix at 75°C for 6 minutes (alternatively, use a regular high-powered blender and blitz for 8 minutes, as the friction of the blades will naturally heat up the oil). Line a sieve with a piece of muslin cloth (or a j-cloth) and place it over a bowl. Pour the oil into the cloth, then place in the fridge to strain overnight
2
For the pickled sea vegetables, bring the white wine, vinegar, water, pickling spice, honey and sugar to the boil, then leave to cool. Place the sea herbs and vegetables into a sterilised jar, then pour the liquor over the top, ensuring they’re fully submerged. Seal and set aside – they will last indefinitely
  • 250ml of white wine
  • 250ml of white wine vinegar
  • 250ml of water
  • 1 tbsp of pickling spice
  • 1/2 tbsp of runny honey
  • 1/4 tbsp of caster sugar
  • 1 handful of sea herbs, washed – Will uses a mixture of samphire, rock samphire, sea rosemary and sea aster
3
The fish needs to be started at least a few days in advance too, as you need to make the kimchi spice and then leave the fish to cure and dry out for a further 30 hours. To make the kimchi spice, drain the liquid from a jar of kimchi, getting as much liquid out of the cabbage and other solids as possible. Pour this liquid into a shallow tray, then place in a dehydrator or very low oven overnight to dehydrate and dry out into a solid. Note you can skip this step and simply cure the trout in salt and sugar, but the dried kimchi liquid adds an incredible depth of flavour
4
Once the kimchi liquid has turned into a solid, crush it into a fine powder. Mix with the salt and sugar to create a curing rub
5
Check over the sea trout for any remaining bones, then score 7 lines into the flesh side of the fish. Place the fish in a tray, then sprinkle the curing mixture all over, ensuring it is thoroughly coated and the mixture has been worked into the scored cuts. Cover and place in the fridge for 24 hours, turning halfway through
6
After 24 hours, wash the fish, pat dry then leave in the fridge for another 6-8 hours to dry out
7
On the day you plan to serve, cook the wheatberries. Wash the wheatberries well in cold water, then drain. Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil, then add the wheatberries and cook for 40-60 minutes, until tender (the time will depend on the berries and what time of year they were harvested). Once tender, drain and leave to cool
  • 500g of wheatberries, or farro
8
To make the mayonnaise, place the egg yolks, mustard, vinegar and a pinch of salt in a blender and blitz. With the motor still running, gradually pour in most of the strained wild garlic oil (reserving a little to garnish) until emulsified. Check for seasoning and add more salt if needed. Transfer to a squeezy bottle if you have one
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 1 tbsp of Dijon mustard
  • 2 tsp apple cider vinegar, ideally infused with wild garlic leaves for 2 weeks (but regular vinegar is fine too)
  • sea salt, to taste
9
Pour a generous amount of vegetable oil into a deep frying pan and heat. Once shimmering hot, add the cooled wheatberries and fry, stirring occasionally, until golden. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside
  • vegetable oil, for frying
10
To serve, slice the trout and arrange lengthways on serving plates. Top with the fried wheatberries, dots of the wild garlic mayonnaise and the drained sea vegetables. Finish with a final drizzle of wild garlic oil
First published in 2021

After investing everything he had into an old pub with a humble plot of land, Will Devlin's restaurant The Small Holding has become a true champion of farm-to-fork eating.

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