Veal kidneys with a Roquefort and walnut butter

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Offal is not what most people would consider a luxurious, indulgent ingredient, but Henry Harris proves this theory wrong in his veal kidney recipe. A rich Roquefort butter is generously heaped over perfectly cooked kidneys, which in turn sit nestled on a bed of rich, smooth mash.

First published in 2015
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Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Veal kidneys

Roquefort and walnut butter

Mashed potato

Equipment

  • Mouli

Method

1
Begin by preparing the Roquefort and walnut butter. Mix the butter with half of the Roquefort, garlic and Tabasco until smooth
2
Crumble the remaining Roquefort into the butter and carefully fold in the walnuts and parsley. Taste for seasoning, then place onto a large sheet of cling film. Cover the butter with the edge of the cling film and roll up into a long, compact sausage. Twist both the ends of the cling film and tie off into knots to seal. Chill in the fridge to set
3
To prepare the veal kidney, remove the fat and trim away any sinew. Separate each nodule of kidney and cut each in half. Set aside while you make the mash
  • 1 veal kidney, whole
4
Add the potatoes to a pan and cover with cold water. Add a few generous pinches of sea salt to the pan, place over a high heat and bring to the boil
5
Reduce to a simmer and cook the potatoes for 20-30 minutes, or until tender all the way through. Drain the potatoes and allow to steam and dry uncovered for 4-5 minutes
6
Pass through a mouli or vegetable mill, using the finest available sieve attachment. Add the potato purée to a clean pan and place over a low heat
7
Using a large spoon, stir the potatoes for 5-10 minutes to dry them out further. Meanwhile, add the milk to a pan and bring to the boil. Once the potatoes are ready, add 1/3 of the milk to the potatoes and beat to combine
  • 500ml of milk
8
Gradually stir in the butter, allowing any lumps to melt completely before each addition. Once the butter has been added, stir in small splashes of milk to create a very smooth, buttery mash. If desired, add more butter to taste
  • 250g of butter, cut into cubes
9
Season with salt and pepper and finish with 2-3 gratings of nutmeg. Keep piping hot while you cook the kidneys
10
Season the kidneys with salt and pepper and heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan
11
Fry the kidneys quickly until they are a light bronze colour on the outside and are rosy pink on the inside - this will take 2-4 minutes depending on the heat of your stove
12
Add the Armagnac and veal stock and cook for a further 10 seconds. Remove the pan from the heat and spoon the mashed potato onto plates
13
Make a well in each mound of mash and place the kidneys inside the well. Place 2 slices of the Roquefort butter over each portion of the kidneys. Serve immediately with a little chopped parsley
First published in 2015
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Henry Harris’s cuisine recalls the fine traditions of French bourgeois cooking with affection and generosity.

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