Venison and beetroot with young cabbage and caraway croquettes

5.00

Kuba Winkowski here pairs fallow deer with sweet beetroot and crispy bacon and spring cabbage croquettes for a colourful and balanced main dish, inspired by the cuisine of his native Kashubia. To make the meat extra special, Kuba dry-aged a whole saddle of venison for 14 days at 2°C for this dish, but this step can be omitted for home cooks. 

First published in 2024

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Beetroot gel

Juniper venison sauce

  • 500g of venison trimmings, and bones, chopped into 2 cm pieces
  • 20g of vegetable oil
  • 20g of butter
  • 50g of onion, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 25g of carrots, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 25g of leek, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 25g of celery, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 40g of Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar
  • 300g of red wine, reduced to 100g
  • 750g of brown chicken stock, reduced to 500g
  • 15g of whipping cream
  • 100g of button mushrooms, sliced
  • 2g of juniper berries
  • 10g of red wine vinegar, reduced by half
  • 50g of brandy, boiled for 10 seconds
  • 40g of blackcurrant jam

Beetroot

Caraway cabbage

Celery salad

Salad dressing

Crêpe

  • 125g of plain flour
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 200g of milk
  • 100g of water
  • 25g of vegetable oil

Pané for croquettes

  • egg yolk, beaten
  • plain flour, as needed
  • eggs, as needed
  • Panko breadcrumbs, as needed
  • vegetable oil, for deep-frying

Fallow deer

  • 800g of venison loin, or cannon, trimmed of silverskin and divided into 6 roughly 120g portions
  • 20g of vegetable oil
  • 20g of butter
  • 1 sprig of rosemary
  • 1 sprig of thyme

Method

1

Place the beetroot juice, salt and agar agar in the saucepan. Bring to the boil, whisking constantly

2

Add the vinegar and then pour into a large bowl or tray. Transfer to the fridge until firm and set

  • 30g of rice vinegar
3

Caramelise the bones and trimmings for the juniper venison sauce until golden brown, first in the oil then in the butter. This will take around 30 minutes in total

4

Remove the bones from the sauce, leaving the butter in the pan

5

Caramelise the mirepoix vegetables (onion, carrot, leek and celery) in the foaming butter, then mix the cooked mirepoix with two thirds of the bones

  • 50g of onion, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 25g of carrots, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 25g of leek, cut into 2 cm pieces
  • 25g of celery, cut into 2 cm pieces
6

Deglaze the pan with the Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar and reduce it down to a glaze

  • 40g of Cabernet Sauvignon vinegar
7

Add the mirepoix and bone mixture, red wine, brown chicken stock and cream

  • 300g of red wine, reduced to 100g
  • 750g of brown chicken stock, reduced to 500g
  • 15g of whipping cream
8

Bring everything to the boil, skim off any scum, and then simmer for 40 minutes

9

Strain off the sauce, passing it through a fine sieve, and then return to the pan

10

Bring the sauce to the boil, and add mushrooms, juniper berries, red wine vinegar reduction and the remaining third of the trimmings. Cook for 20 minutes

11

Pass the sauce through a fine mesh strainer again, and then return back to the pan

12

Finish the sauce with brandy and blackcurrant jam, then taste and correct the seasoning as needed

  • 50g of brandy, boiled for 10 seconds
  • 40g of blackcurrant jam
13

Preheat the oven to 180°C

14

Line the bottom of the small roasting dish with half of the sage, rosemary, thyme, garlic and juniper berries

15

Line the aromatics with hay, then arrange the ruby beetroots on top (make sure ruby goes on the bottom). Season lightly with salt and pepper

  • hay
16

Add another layer of hay and then arrange the rest of the beetroots on top, and season lightly with salt and pepper again

  • 1 bunch of baby candy beetroot, 1 bunch baby ruby beetroot and 1 bunch baby golden beetroot, all washed and trimmed
17

Put the rest of the herbs, garlic, and juniper on top and top with a final layer of hay

18

Place the roasting dish over a high heat and leave for a couple of minutes until it starts smoking

19

Add the water and cover with tin foil

  • 150g of water
20

Roast the beetroots in the oven for 1 hour

21

Remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly for about 30 minutes

22

Peel beetroots and trim their roots. Thinly slice a few of the golden beetroots and cut any bigger beetroots in half. Season the golden beetroots with the dressing and a little more salt, and then in a separate bowl season and dress the remaining beetroots

23

Mix the julienned cabbage with the salt, and then set aside for 15 minutes

24

Rinse the cabbage and then pat it thoroughly dry

25

Heat up a dash of oil in a large pan, and then add the bacon lardons. Cook them until the lardons are lightly caramelised

26

Remove the bacon from the pan with a slotted spoon, leaving the fat behind

27

Add the cabbage and caraway seeds to the pan, and cook in the bacon fat until slightly softened and browned

28

Deglaze the pan with the vinegar

  • 30g of white wine vinegar
29

Add the chicken stock and butter, and then reduce until the butter is emulsified and the cabbage is cooked

  • 100g of chicken stock
  • 50g of butter
30

Remove from the heat, then add the mustard and cooked lardons

31

Shave the celery with a speed peeler into thick, long slices. Place in ice water for an hour or so to crisp up

32

Emulsify all the ingredients for the salad dressing together with a hand blender

33

Blitz all the crêpe ingredients together with a hand blender until there are no lumps

  • 125g of plain flour
  • 3 eggs
  • 1 pinch of salt
  • 200g of milk
  • 100g of water
  • 25g of vegetable oil
34

Cook the crêpes a small ladle at a time in a lightly greased nonstick frying pan over a medium to medium-low heat. You don’t want them to be too thin, as they should be fairly toothsome in the croquettes. This makes enough for about 15 crêpes

35

Next, make the croquettes. Spread a 5 mm thick layer of cabbage on each pancake

36

Roll tight and seal with egg yolk

37

Pané each croquette in flour, egg and finally panko

  • plain flour, as needed
  • eggs, as needed
  • Panko breadcrumbs, as needed
38

Preheat the oven to 160°C and heat up a few centimetres of oil to 160°C in a large, deep, heavy-bottomed saucepan

  • vegetable oil, for deep-frying
39

Deep-fry the croquettes until golden brown and finish in the oven for 5 minutes until hot

40

Cut each croquette into 3 cm-thick sections

41

Pan-fry the venison in oil until browned on all sides

  • 800g of venison loin, or cannon, trimmed of silverskin and divided into 6 roughly 120g portions
  • 20g of vegetable oil
42

Add the butter, rosemary and thyme. Baste the venison in the foaming butter constantly for about 4 minutes, or until it’s 45°C at the thickest part of the fillet 

43

Put to the side in a warm space to rest for 10 minutes

44

To plate the dish, place a quenelle of beetroot gel in the centre of the plate, and place a cabbage croquette next to it. Carve the venison into three slices, season each with salt and pepper and then place them next to the croquette and beetroot gel. Scatter the seasoned, dressed baby beetroots and top with celery salad. Finish with juniper sauce and serve

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From moving to England at twenty-four to attend catering college to being named National Chef of The Year 2019, Kuba Winkowski has rocketed to the top in record time. His cooking is refined, peppered with Polish influences and – most importantly – delicious.

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