It takes a brave kind of person to leave an established kitchen to set up a restaurant of your own from scratch; even more so if your surname is Roux and your family is responsible for one of the most important culinary legacies in the country. However, that’s exactly what Emily Roux and her husband, former head chef of Le Gavroche, Diego Ferrari did when they opened relaxed Notting Hill spot Caractère, where they’ve gone on to make a name for themselves thanks to their striking French-Italian dishes and laid-back ambience.

Since opening its doors in 2018, the aim at Caractère has always been to serve tasty yet accessible food which combines the unpretentious, hearty elements of Italian cuisine with the precision of French cookery. This is reflected in the design of the restaurant itself; located within a former pub, the space blends high-spec décor, including plush pink velvet chairs, with rustic exposed brick walls, to create a dining room that’s both cosy and luxurious in equal measure.

Grounded in the traditional techniques of French cookery, the food menu features a number of contemporary Italian-inspired dishes which all come strikingly presented on the plate. Rather than breaking down the à la carte menu into starters, mains and desserts, Caractère’s food offering is instead arranged into traits such as ‘subtle’, ‘robust’ and ‘greedy’. While ‘curious’ dishes range from aubergine ravioli with Sicilian red prawns to a crab tartlet, ‘robust’ ones might include grilled squab pigeon and a crispy rolled potato. Meanwhile, you can expect ‘greedy’ puddings such as a refined take on a rum baba.

In keeping with the ethos of the restaurant, you won’t find a wine on Caractère’s list that isn’t from either Italy or France, though most regions of those countries are covered. Diners can also opt for a wine pairing to accompany the tasting and lunch menus.

Caractère demonstrates that even in upmarket west London it’s possible for restaurants to strike a balance between cooking interesting food and creating a relaxed atmosphere. Emily and Diego have genuinely managed to showcase their character in restaurant form – and the public have fallen in love with it.

Photography by Jodie Hinds