Central London certainly isn’t short of good Japanese restaurants. There are the multi-Michelin-starred temples to sushi and sashimi; countless ramen joints; izakaya-style menus and more specialist places that focus on the many different facets of Japanese cuisine. On first glance, you might think Dinings SW3 falls into this category, but what chef Masaki Sugisaki does in the kitchen – weaving European dishes, techniques and flavours into modern Japanese fare – makes it stand out from the crowd.

There is sushi and sashimi on offer – some of the finest in London – with classic varieties sitting alongside more modern iterations such as salmon with onion soy jam or sea bass with lime, truffle and kombu salt. Look elsewhere on the menu, and you’ll start to see more obvious European influences creep in. Wasabi aioli; potted Cornish lobster with yuzu sauce vierge; asparagus with tahini miso. Wagyu beef is served in slider form, or you can opt for a sashimi-based fruits de mer. Chef Masaki spent years as a chef in Japan, but set up shop in London so he could enjoy more freedom and creativity in his cooking – and it’s here, in these Japanese-European dishes, where his talents really shine through.

Despite its location and larder full of world-class ingredients, the service at Dinings SW3 is surprisingly relaxed and laidback. The building itself is beautiful, with an open, airy dining room surrounding the sushi bar, giving you a chance to see some seriously skilled chefs in action. There’s also a tranquil courtyard for when the weather’s good – a rare thing to find in the centre of London.

The wine list covers both old and new world varieties, including plenty of top-end bottles for people looking to really splurge, but it’s the sakes that make for the most interesting options. The chef even has his own sakes on the list (78 Kin and 78 Gin), and there’s a good selection of Japanese teas to try too.