A meal at a restaurant like Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is usually reserved for the most special of occasions. Thankfully, the experience more than lives up to built-up expectations, with some absolutely stunning technique on show from the kitchen and a perfectly tuned front of house operation.
Originally opened in 2008, when Hélène took over from previous operator Angela Hartnett, the restaurant has certainly stood the test of time. The décor has been updated a few times and the menu changes regularly with the seasons, but the quality has never dipped below exceptional. With its pastel pink walls, seriously chic designer furniture and beautiful trolleys, ice buckets and a slew of other modish bells and whistles, the surroundings are only usurped by the beautifully presented dishes.
The menu itself lists around fourteen dishes, from which diners can choose either five or seven to create their own meal. There's also a three-course lunch menu during the week and special menus are regularly created for occasions such as Valentine's Day and Christmas.
The food itself relies on the very best ingredients France and the UK has to offer – Cornish fish, Scottish seafood, chicken from the Tauzin family farm in Les Landes (where Hélène spent her childhood) and Cévennes onions are all name-checked on the menu. French technique is, of course, at the forefront of all the cookery, but the chefs incorporate lots of international elements into their dishes, too. Foie gras, for example, comes with a sake and koji sauce, while lobster is poached in tandoori-spiced butter.
As you'd imagine, the wine list is vast, with 100 pages of bottles to browse through – many of which are available by the glass. There's also an impressive list of interesting beers to choose from, including plenty of Trappist and unusual Belgian brews, plus a complete sake list and bespoke cocktails for starting a meal in style.
For those looking for a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the chef's table downstairs overlooks the kitchen, providing plenty of theatre. However, the main dining room offers plenty of scope for theatrics, too, with grand trolleys holding some of the world's best Armagnacs wheeled around and tableside service from the waiters. One thing's for certain – a meal at Hélène Darroze at The Connaught is a very, very special treat.