It’s one thing making a success of a restaurant offering a cuisine that some people may not be familiar with, but opening somewhere that ultimately puts that cuisine on a city’s map is something else entirely. Although London’s Indian food scene has been renowned for a number of years, Sri Lankan food wasn’t as well represented (particularly in central London) until Hoppers Frith Street opened in 2015. Since then, Sri Lankan food has seen a boom in popularity with other Hoppers sites opening elsewhere in London, while the intimate original continues to serve some of the capital’s most vibrant South Asian food.

Located in the heart of spirited Soho, the unassuming restaurant is small but always buzzing. Patterned terracotta tiles cover the dining room floor and walls, while the woven rattan ceiling brings warmth. While it used to be the case that you would have to join an often-lengthy queue to grab a table, Hoppers Frith Street now takes bookings.

Inspired by the food served in Sri Lanka’s village toddy shops, Hoppers’ menu consists of a variety of small plates designed to be shared by the table. The a la carte menu begins with snacks including murukku, while short eats range from mutton rolls and devilled paneer to a bone marrow varuval served with roti. Sri Lankan karis on offer include prawn and green mango, and black pork; these can be accompanied by rice, dosas, or of course, hoppers – the Sri Lankan rice flour pancakes that give the restaurant its name. The taste of Hoppers menu meanwhile, gives diners the chance to try a mixture of dishes from each section. A short but sweet drinks list features everything from Sri Lankan-inspired cocktails to wines by the glass and bottle.

When Hoppers Frith Street first threw open its doors, the combination of the restaurant’s understated vibe and bold Sri Lankan flavours captured the hearts of Londoners. The fact that it continues to do so, even as further sites open, shows that Hoppers is something special.