Opposite the grand Cadogan Hall in upmarket Belgravia, Kahani is Peter Joseph’s solo debut, after over a decade in the kitchens at Tamarind – one of London’s most highly regarded Indian restaurants. Though Peter spent much of his career at the latter – including a number of years as head chef – Kahani may be the first time we have truly seen his style on display so overtly.

Though Peter grew up in Chennai – one of southern India’s most populous cities – he spent his youth watching Madhur Jaffrey on British TV, and has always held a great fondness for the country he calls home today. It makes sense, then, that the menu at Kahani takes equal inspiration from both, celebrating the spices and aromas of India’s southern heartland whilst making the most of outstanding British produce.

The ingredients can take many guises at Kahani – Peter keeps the menu relatively fluid, with dishes coming on and off depending on seasonal availability of produce. ‘It’s a privilege to work in London because there’s an amazing variety of produce available,’ he says. ‘Very traditional Indian vegetables are now easily accessible but I also love using great seasonal British ingredients to keep my food relevant and dynamic whilst remaining authentically Indian.’ Balance is clearly a theme at Kahani, and the menu stays true to that with a mixture of meat, fish, game and vegetarian dishes. The emphasis on cooking is undoubtedly around the grill and the tandoor – the complex, smoky flavour that comes from the roaring heat of both is central to the success of dishes like smoked Malabar prawns with fresh turmeric, coconut and curry leaves; tandoori double poussin, hot with chilli and ginger and a fantastic marinated tandoori broccoli dish with honey, nigella seeds and wheat crisps.

The extensive use of these cooking techniques also lends many of the dishes at Kahani a certain cleanliness on the palate. If you come here in search of rich, cream and ghee-laden curry sauces, you may be in the wrong place. Though that said, the butter chicken on the menu is sublime – silky and rich with tomato and fenugreek.

There’s an extensive, worldly wine list on offer too – one that even ventures to Peter’s home, offering a number of reds, whites and a sparkling Blanc de Blancs from the Fratelli vineyard in Maharashtra, as well as a compact list of Indian-inspired cocktails.