Take an evening stroll along the Brighton promenade and you’ll likely see flocks of starlings, swooping and diving between the West and Palace piers. It’s a spectacular sight, especially in the glow of a south coast sunset. The shapeshifting forms of the starling flocks are called ‘murmurations’, and that's exactly what provided the inspiration for Michael Bremner’s latest restaurant. Sitting in between the arches of Brighton’s renovated promenade, Murmur is a relaxed bistro that combines Michael’s exemplary cooking and clever flavour combinations with the delights of the Brighton seafront.
Michael made a name for himself at 64 Degrees, also in Brighton, and on Great British Menu when he made the final banquet in 2017. His cooking at Murmur is certainly more relaxed than at his flagship; smart flavour combinations are evident in the starters and desserts, but the mains take a more family-friendly bistro route. Dishes like roast cod with fregola, broad bean pesto and black truffle, seared spring lamb rump with colcannon mash, pea, mint and pancetta, and roast chicken breast, dauphinoise potatoes, purple sprouting broccoli and tarragon purée are all accessible and delicious in equal measure. It’s the sort of crowd-pleasing food we’re happy to dive right into.
The interior is minimal but bright and cheerful – the sunshine-yellow chairs and teal banquettes give the restaurant a real lift, even when the British sun decides not to show its face. It’s all very welcoming and buzzing, especially in the summer – with thirty-seven covers inside and another forty on the terrace outside, it’s certainly one of the hottest food spots on the promenade.
If you wanted to stop in just for a drink, there are a few stools situated along the bar as you walk into the restaurant. There’s a decent drinks selection too – the cocktail menu includes a delightful pickled strawberry spritz, made with vodka, pickled strawberry, yuzu and soda, and the compact wine list is carefully selected from across Europe and the New World, categorised by flavour and texture. From front to back, Murmur is carefully considered and thought out – it’s the perfect place to watch those starlings in the evening.