It’s all too easy for restaurants to fall into the trap of being so determined to do something interesting and original with their food that the basics get neglected and the dishes don’t end up being as special as they could be. There are of course lots of people out there wanting to be challenged by menus, but there are just as many diners looking for classic combinations and hearty plates cooked to perfection. Since it first threw open its doors in 2017, Noizé in Fitzrovia has always been about elegant but familiar classically led food and that has continued under current head chef George Farrugia.

The brain-child of former Pied à Terre co-owner and manager Mathieu Germond, Noizé was his way of bringing a slice of the Loire Valley, where he grew up, to London – with just as much emphasis placed on fantastic wine and a lively atmosphere as the food. Built over two floors, the restaurant’s basement has a stylish, contemporary feel to it with its stripped wooden floorboards and a bar hugging the exposed brick walls – the perfect spot for cocktail and a few snacks. In contrast, the light-filled upstairs dining room is a more traditionally French affair, with red velvet banquettes and white tablecloths a plenty.

Farrugia’s blackboard-led menu showcases high-quality ingredients sourced from independent suppliers. Dainty snacks to munch on before your meal range from cheddar gougères to veal croquettes, while starters might include game parmentier with garlic butter or confit salmon with Granny Smith endive salad and horseradish. After main courses such as pigs’ cheeks with pomme purée and crispy shallot, it’s a must to leave room for one of Noizé’s crowd-pleasing desserts – a tarte Tatin with vanilla ice cream for example, or a rum baba with pineapple carpaccio. However, the menu changes regularly so there's always something new to try. Meanwhile, an extensive wine list has been carefully thought through and provides suggested combinations, while customers also have the option to bring their own bottles for a small corkage fee.

The team at Noizé have never been trying to reinvent the wheel but have always been determined to give diners big, bold food that’s packed with flavour. Under head chef George Farrugia they continue to do so – and have regularly packed dining rooms as a result.