The concept of a completely outdoor restaurant in a country with weather as infamously unreliable as the UK is a bold one. Add to this the idea of guests cooking their own food at the table and Parrillan may sound like an unlikely kind of restaurant for London – but Barrafina’s executive chef Angel Zapata Martin has never been one to shy away from a challenge. Since opening its doors in 2019, the broad menu at Parrillan has been attracting guests in their droves to brave the cold for a little slice of Spain in the capital.
Found atop of the roof of King’s Cross’ fashionable Coal Drop Yards, the spacious partially-covered terrace does benefit from powerful heaters but diners may find that the heat coming off the personal charcoal mini-grills (called parrillas) on each table is enough to stay toasty. Not only do these parrillas give this al fresco spot its name, but they form the basis for the majority of the menu. Customers can choose everything from a vegetable platter to gambero rosso (red prawns) and lagarto Ibérico and let them sizzle away on the grills, deciding themselves when the food is ready with minimal guidance from the menu.
That’s not to say there aren’t dishes offered at Parrillan which are prepared in full by the kitchen. Barrafina-style ‘para picar’ include marinated olives, a moreish torta de Cañarejal cheese and of course Zapata Martin’s much-loved ham croquetas. A choice of paellas for the table provides further options if cooking on the parrilla doesn’t sound like your sort of thing, while a short and simple selection of puddings completes the menu.
In keeping with the food, Parrillan serves an almost exclusively Spanish wine list with various cavas available by the glass and bottle, as well as sherry, cocktails and a separate gin and tonic menu.
What may have seemed an unusual sort of opening from the Barrafina team has once again proved a huge success; whether it’s down to the fun of cooking your own food, the trendy location or the signature small plates, people just keep coming back to Parrillan.
Parrillan is loosely based on Ibiza’s ‘grill-your-own’ restaurant C’an Pilot, which Zapata Martin regularly visited when working on the Spanish island.
As well as Parrillan, there is also an outpost of Barrafina at Coal Drops Yard.
A glass roof protects the majority of tables at Parrillan from the rain.