Wishart's intention to turn the area into a gastronomic hotspot is well-documented, and judging by the success of Restaurant Martin Wishart – Michelin starred and ranked in the top 30 restaurants in the UK by the Good Food Guide – he is succeeding.

The restaurant wears its provenance on its sleeve – with Loch Ryan oysters, Isle of Mull scallops and Borders hare on the menu. The style of food is deceptively simple – cornerstone ingredients lead the way in tempting dishes that take influence from all over the world. And as only the best chefs can, Wishart manages to both startle and delight with inventive combinations of flavour and texture – as seen in dishes like Sea bass wrapped in potato with bone marrow, poached scallops and smoked celeriac jus.

The colossal wine list features a wide selection of New World and European vintages by the glass, as well as a predominantly French main section.

Wishart's eponymous venture features a cookery school nearby as well as the restaurant, which is a distinctly elegant leather and bare wood-clad place on a charming stretch of harbour in Leith.