Down the street from The Dairy – the restaurant that made Robin Gill one of London’s hottest chefs and restaurateurs – lies Sorella (which means sister in Italian), one of his latest ventures. Housed in the building that was formerly The Manor (another of Robin’s restaurants), the menu at this Italian-inspired eatery combines traditional classics with preserves and the finest produce, originally put together by the very talented co-owner and head chef Dean Parker (who now spends most of his time at Robin's other restaurant, Darby's).
The interior is stripped back, with bare brick walls, rough wooden panelling and simple white walls. There’s the occasional Italian flourish, nodding to Robin’s year and a half spent cooking on the Amalfi Coast at the Michelin-starred Don Alfonso 1890 when he was younger, and the bar area puts Sorella’s homemade vermouth on show and offers a small but perfectly curated list of Italian cocktails.
The menu is divided into four main sections – cicchetti (snacks) and antipasti; primi (pasta); secondi (mains) and dolci (desserts). There are also contorni (side dishes) to bolster the main offering, and if you go for lunch from Wednesday to Friday there’s a daily changing primi for a quick, simple and very delicious lunch. There’s no tasting menu per se, but the Chef’s Menu sees the kitchen team choose a selection of dishes from across the menu to be enjoyed by the whole table. The secondi are particularly good, often featuring large cuts of meat slowly cooked and smoked over fire.
The food at Sorella is obviously very Italian, but don’t expect the same old dishes that you’d find at any other Italian restaurant. Robin and Dean’s love for preserving and fermenting (which made The Dairy and The Manor such popular places to eat) is evident throughout the menu, from the miso in the sourdough bread to the fermented fennel and homemade coppa. There are always several pasta dishes available but the ragùs and sauces served with them will depend on what seasonal vegetables the team get from their suppliers. Robin and Dean also have their own dedicated farm run by Indie Ecology in West Sussex, which provides some of the more standout ingredients.