There are few dining rooms as beautifully serene as Spring, in the heart of London overlooking the River Thames. What was once the head office for the Inland Tax Revenue is now a beautifully restored and renovated space that’s home to some of the most refreshingly simple and pretty plates of food in the city. At the helm of it all is chef Skye Gyngell, who along with head chef Rose Ashby takes only the very best ingredients and showcases them with effortless skill and grace.
Full of natural light with large windows, high ceilings and a combination of whites and pastel pinks, Spring’s dining room is airy, neutral and bright. White tablecloths can sometimes signify a more formal dining experience, but Spring is a very relaxed place to eat, with a calm, laidback service that acts as a refuge to the bustle of the city streets outside. The private garden dining room is even more stunning, with trees and plants bringing a touch of nature indoors.
Diners can choose between à la carte menus for lunch and dinner, a set lunch menu and the hugely popular pre-theatre ‘Scratch’ menu, which is entirely made of ingredients that would otherwise be wasted. This is an important part of Spring’s zero-waste policy, where the kitchen uses 100% of all the food it gets in. Single-use plastics have also been completely eliminated from the kitchen since the beginning of 2019.
The ingredients are at the heart of Skye’s cooking, and she sources the vast majority of them from Fern Verrow, a biodynamic farm in Herefordshire. The farm grows fruit, vegetables and flowers exclusively for Skye, which are only harvested when they’re at their very best. This means the menus change all the time, following the seasons as closely as possible. Skye knows that by working with ingredients of such high quality, they are best served in a simple, uncomplicated way; for example, monkfish is served wrapped in chard with lemony white beans and a simple dressing, while crab meat is paired with blood oranges and bitter leaves. There is no room for foams and cheffy garnishes here; the produce speaks for itself.
The wine list is extensive, with many bottles available by the glass and carafe. It’s the house cocktails and liqueurs, however, that are the most interesting. With a whole range of homemade drinks (including the tonic water for the G&Ts), plus a short selection of six simple cocktails, the bar team is dedicated to bringing out the natural flavours of well-sourced ingredients.