For somewhere as well-known and renowned as The Dorchester, it’s a brave decision to take one of the hotel’s oldest and most established restaurants and give it a complete redesign, both in terms of the space and the food offering. However, that’s exactly what happened to The Grill at The Dorchester in 2019, when it reopened with a fresh design and its youngest head chef in the restaurant’s ninety-year history at the helm, Tom Booton. The risk has most certainly paid off, and since reopening it has been attracting a whole new clientele alongside its long-standing regulars.

Wanting to give the space a more contemporary feel, the hotel has revived the interiors whilst keeping some of the original silver-laced tables and chairs. A striking chandelier now hangs from the centre of the ornate ceiling, while the addition of banquettes gives The Grill a swanky but slightly more casual feel. Meanwhile, the introduction of a pudding bar gives guests the opportunity to eat their final course whilst watching the pastry chefs at work.

Booton’s exciting menu sees him put contemporary twists on dishes which otherwise have their roots in classical European cookery, while also championing British produce. Starters on offer might include veal sweetbreads with a celeriac risotto and trompettes, or a take on Pierre Koffmann’s squid Bolognese. Diners can expect luxurious mains such as herb-crusted turbot with mussels, leeks and pommes Anna or perhaps an indulgent lobster thermidor tart. Desserts range from takes on the classics like sticky toffee pudding to more playful options like white snickers with a salted milk ice cream.

As you might expect, an extensive selection of fine wines are available by the bottle as well as by the glass thanks to the use of a Coravin system. The Grill’s cocktail list is equally impressive, featuring both seasonal concoctions and spins on a few classics.

As it fast approaches 100 years of being open, The Grill at The Dorchester continues to remain as relevant as ever and that’s due both to its fresh new interiors and Tom Booton’s inventive yet crowd-pleasing menu.