The vastly impressive, ivy-covered edifice looms out of lush gardens, features its own golf course and offers the options of tennis, five-star spa breaks and chauffeurs to Ascot. Outdoor pools and a jacuzzi, plush rooms and options for special events and corporate entertainment mark Pennyhill Park as a prestige destination. Tailor-made breaks – with golf, dinner and Champagne at a special price – make it more accessible than you might expect.

The restaurant follows suit – its subtly sumptuous decor, subtly top-flight and attentive service, and a smart atmosphere give some idea of what to expect (the bar attached is altogether more informal, although the selection of drinks on offer is enviably high-end). And the food also fits the bill perfectly. The emphasis here is on smart combinations of ingredients which bear their top-quality cultivation and provenance with pride. Presentation is dazzling and central elements of the dishes are augmented with a multitude of carefully thought-out accompaniments. The ambitions here are high – and the Latymer succeeds in delivering.

There’s a vegetarian tasting menu available, and a primarily European (and lengthy) wine list which draws attention to terroir and seasonality as well as food matching.