The Pipe and Glass is a family affair, with James MacKenzie running the kitchen and his wife, Kate, in charge of front of house. In addition to earning the first – and currently only – Michelin star held in East Yorkshire in 2010, they were also awarded the 2013 Pub and Bar Award in the Cateys (industry insider ‘Oscars’) and were the Good Food Guide’s County Dining Pub of the Year for 2014.
Since the couple took over in 2006, the gastropub’s fortunes have evolved from regional secret to destination restaurant. Set in the estate village of South Dalton, not far from the historic town of Beverley in the gorgeous countryside of the Yorkshire Wolds, the Pipe and Glass is on the site of the original 15th century gatehouse to Dalton Park.
On taking control of this historic pub, James and Kate completely refurbished the building and interiors, keeping the country pub feel – think wood burners, tartan tweed and brassy beer pumps - while creating a warm, luxurious restaurant.
The beautiful garden, complete with an airy conservatory holding a spectacular long table for up to 28 people, offers plenty of outdoor seating in the summer. A private dining room, with its own lounge and demonstration kitchen, is also available upstairs. If you fancy staying the night, two boutique suites are available with wonderful views of the park, but be prepared to book ahead!
This unpretentious homage to the Great British pub offers what James Mackenzie describes as 'a warm welcome…great service…good Yorkshire hospitality' with a mixed clientele ranging from London foodies to families to local farmers. Appealing to 'a broad demographic of customer' is important to the couple and the pub is very well integrated into the local community.
You can get a range of food at the Pipe and Glass, from fine dining with wine to a steak sandwich and a pint, with hearty Yorkshire portions for diners with an appetite. A champion of locally sourced produce, James Mackenzie puts the spotlight back on traditional, often underused, ingredients and dishes, reflecting his interest in his surroundings and the food customs of Yorkshire.
Understanding his suppliers and producers and treating their quality produce with respect is central to James Mackenzie’s food. And quality ingredients are not hard to find in this neck of the woods – from fresh fish sourced from the east coast waters to local fruits and vegetables – there is a wealth of choice in the region, all of which is reflected in the carefully crafted dishes.
Kate Mackenzie works closely with wine producers to deliver the quality and style necessary to complement the pub’s menu and there is a wide, changing selection of ales for those who fancy beer instead. Together with mentor and old friend Andrew Pern from The Star Inn at Harome (still one of James’ favourite places to go on a rare day off), Mackenzie even produces his own Two Chefs ales, seasonal beers brewed with additions such as local honey and lemon thyme from The Star Inn’s garden. Available in their two restaurants, as well as in delis and beer shops, the beer also makes its way into many dishes at the Pipe and Glass, from gravies and braises to bread.
With two young children in the family, James and Kate Mackenzie understand the challenges of dining with youngsters in tow, so have taken care to create a family-friendly environment in the pub complete with substantial Little People’s menu. It’s touches like these – in addition to their beautifully executed, locally inspired, modern Yorkshire cuisine – that keep both locals and more distant food-lovers returning again and again.