Local ingredients, self-sufficiency, zero-waste – three phrases that pepper restaurant websites throughout the UK (with varying degrees of truth behind them). At The Small Holding, opened in 2018 by chef Will Devlin and his brother Matt, however, they truly take this trio of philosophies to heart. And while it is practically impossible for any restaurant to be truly self-sufficient and produce no waste whatsoever, this is a place that gets far closer than many.
Situated in the quaint Kent village of Kilndown, The Small Holding quickly garnered national attention, not just due to its ultra-sustainable ethos, but also for its bold style of cooking. Located in a former inn, it boasts an acre of land packed full of vegetables, herbs, fruit and more, with pigs and chickens romping around happily in an aim to fulfil its ambition of being as self-sustaining as possible. Ingredients which can’t be grown onsite are instead sourced from local farmers and producers.
While the food offering (which changes completely every day depending on seasonal availability) is fine dining through-and-through in its presentation, the feel of the restaurant is anything but. A rustic charm prevails inside thanks to the stripped wooden floors and mismatching chairs, which wouldn’t look out of place in a farmhouse kitchen. Boasting a decked garden terrace, customers can also dine al fresco at The Small Holding while staring out over the lush garden full of raised beds.
The regularly changing nature of the restaurant’s ingredient-led menu means that serving an à la carte isn’t feasible. That’s why there’s only a tasting menu offered here, which consists of around ten courses at dinner and seven at lunch. A variety of elegantly presented meat, fish and vegetarian dishes might include mutton served with peas and beans, an oyster topped with kale and chilli, and perhaps a sweet fennel choux bun to finish.
A drinks menu featuring low intervention wines and sparkling wines from the south of England accompanies what’s on the plate, while a bespoke pairing is also offered. Beers are available on tap and a short selection of cocktails complete the offering.
Will and the team at The Small Holding continue to win praise from critics and customers alike for demonstrating that it is possible to run a top restaurant in a wonderfully self-contained manner.