Cheddar has some serious history behind it. The cheese has been produced in the UK since the 12th century and was aged in caves in Somerset; at that time the best cheese was said to come from Cheddar Gorge, hence the name (the Cheddar Gorge Cheese Co are still in production today). There used to be hundreds of cheddar producers in Britain, but during the second world war when milk was rationed, only one cheese (‘government cheddar’) was allowed to be made, so many producers fell by the wayside. Artisan cheddar making has been fighting its way back in the last twenty years, with producers popping up all over the UK; West Country Farmhouse Cheddar is now an official PDO-protected food made in Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Cornwall. Cheddar sales account for over half of all cheese sales in the UK, with the average person eating three and a half kilos of it every year.

The exact flavour of cheddar differs from truckle to truckle; everything from the cows’ diets to their location can affect the final taste. However, there are certain qualities to look for that will always be present in a good cheddar. The cheese should be creamy, with a perfect balance of sweet and savoury flavours and an overall tanginess that lingers on the palate. Cheddar also has an unmistakable nuttiness, similar to buttery hazelnuts.

If the cheese has been matured properly it will crumble without being too dry and melt in the mouth. The more mature the cheese, the more acidic and salty it will become as it loses moisture. Cloth bound farmhouse varieties tend to be stronger in flavour, especially when unpasteurized, as bacteria that are killed in the process of pasteurisation enhance the final taste.