Parmesan ‘cloud’, Parmesan ice cream, tomato jam, pickled sunflower seeds

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Matt Gillan shares an elaborate gourmet Parmesan recipe, celebrating the brilliance of this Italian hard cheese in a few wondrous components, including Parmesan 'cloud', ice cream, crumb and oil. These tricky elements are complemented with crispy chicken skin and sun-dried tomatoes to make a Michelin-star quality dish.

First published in 2015

Ingredients

Metric

Imperial

Parmesan 'cloud'

  • 200g of Parmesan
  • 1000ml of chicken stock, good quality
  • 5 gelatine leaves

Parmesan oil

Parmesan ice cream

  • 600g of semi-skimmed milk
  • 60g of sugar
  • 40g of milk powder
  • 60g of ProCrema, Sosa

Parmesan crumb

Chicken skin

Semi-dried tomatoes

Tomato jam

  • 1000g of plum tomatoes, blanched and peeled
  • 300g of sugar
  • 150g of white wine vinegar

Onion mayonnaise

Sunflower seeds

  • 50g of sunflower seeds
  • 50g of white wine vinegar

Equipment

  • Fine sieve
  • Muslin cloth
  • Food processor with a whisk attachment
  • Dehydrator
  • Sous vide equipment
  • Thermomix
  • Pacojet

Method

1
Begin by preparing the Parmesan 'cloud'. Cut the Parmesan into 2-3cm cubes and set aside. Add the chicken stock to a pan, bring to the boil and add the Parmesan. Remove from the heat and allow to infuse for 20 minutes
  • 200g of Parmesan
  • 1000ml of chicken stock, good quality
2
Once infused, strain through a fine sieve lined with muslin and chill overnight
3
Remove from the fridge and remove the layer of fat from the top of the stock. Weigh out 600g of the stock, add to the bowl of a food mixer and soak the gelatine in cold water until soft. Add 100g of stock to a pan and heat gently, keeping the remaining stock very cold
  • 5 gelatine leaves
4
Squeeze the excess liquid out of the gelatine and add to the heated stock. Mix well to dissolve completely, remove from the heat and allow to cool but not set
5
Add the chilled stock to the mixer and whisk on a high speed. Add the gelatine-infused stock and continue whisking until the stock resembles a meringue. Pour into a cling film-lined container, chill and allow to set for at least 1 hour
6
For the Parmesan oil, add the rind to a vac pac bag, add the oil and vacuum pack until tightly sealed
7
Preheat a water bath to 85°C
8
Place the bag in the water bath and heat for 4 hours. After this time, remove the bag and chill in a bowl of iced water, leaving the bag sealed
9
For the Parmesan ice cream, add all of the ingredients to a Thermomix and blend for 5 minutes until thoroughly combined. Transfer to Pacojet beakers and freeze to -20°C
  • 600g of semi-skimmed milk
  • 60g of sugar
  • 40g of milk powder
  • 60g of ProCrema, Sosa
10
Add the beakers to the Pacojet machine and churn to emulsify. Return to the freezer to hold the temperature at -12°C to -14°C
11
For the Parmesan crumb, grate the Parmesan into fairly large pieces onto a dehydrator mat. Place in the dehydrator at 60°C until dry
12
Drain the crumb on kitchen paper to remove excess fat, then transfer to a Thermomix. Blitz until a fine powder forms
13
For the chicken skin, remove any excess fat from the skin and lay each piece out on greaseproof paper, fat-side down. Sprinkle with salt and lay another sheet of greaseproof paper on top
14
Preheat the oven to 180°C/gas mark 4
15
Slide onto a baking tray and place another tray on top. Press the upper tray down with a heavy, ovenproof weight and place in the oven for 22-28 minutes until the skin is crispy. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside
16
For the semi-dried tomatoes, blanch the tomatoes in boiling water until the skin starts to peel off, then refresh in iced water. Peel the tomatoes, cut into quarters and remove the seeds
17
Peel the garlic, finely chop and add to a bowl, then pick the thyme leaves and add to the bowl with the garlic. Add the salt, sugar and oil, mix well, then add the tomato petals and stir gently to coat
18
Spread the mix onto a dehydrator mat and dry in the dehydrator at 60°C until the tomatoes have started to shrivel up
19
For the tomato jam, chop the tomatoes and place in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the sugar and vinegar, mix to combine and place over a medium heat. Bring to the boil and blend with a hand-blender
  • 1000g of plum tomatoes, blanched and peeled
  • 300g of sugar
  • 150g of white wine vinegar
20
Return to a medium heat and bring the temperature up to 105°C. Once that temperature has been reached, remove from the heat and allow to cool
21
For the onion mayonnaise, place the egg yolk in a blender with the mustard, vinegar, salt and onion powder. Blitz until smooth and incorporated, then reduce the speed and slowly add the oil in a thin, steady stream until thick, ensuring that the oil is being continuously incorporated
22
To prepare the sunflower seeds, toast the seeds in a frying pan over a high heat. Allow some to burn slightly, some to colour slightly and some to remain untoasted. In a separate bowl, mix together the vinegar and 150g of the Parmesan oil until thoroughly combined
  • 50g of sunflower seeds
  • 50g of white wine vinegar
23
Add the vinaigrette to the hot pan, remove from the heat and allow to cool
24
To plate the dish, cut a portion of the Parmesan 'cloud' approximately 6cm in length and place the portions onto plates with a piece of the chicken skin. Follow with the tomatoes, tomato jam and Parmesan crumb
25
Add a few pipings of the onion mayonnaise and toasted sunflower seeds. Finally, garnish with a scoop of the Parmesan ice cream and micro-cress (optional). Serve immediately
First published in 2015

A protégé of Daniel Clifford, Gordon Ramsay and John Campbell, Matt Gillan is well versed in the hallmarks of high-end cuisine, yet he retains a dazzling streak of originality.

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