Pandan swiss roll with whipped cream
This fluffy Swiss roll from Shu Han Lee’s Agak Agak is a Singaporean classic. Her version is filled with a moreish kaya jam, worth making just for its own sake. Pandan extract can be found in Chinese supermarkets, and gives the sponge a delicate green colour and irresistible fragrance. Credit: Agak Agak by Shu Han Lee (Hardie Grant, £26), Photography © Ola O. Smit.
Shu says: ‘I owe this Swiss roll recipe to my friend Cherry Tang. This is a friendship kindled, quite literally, over the stove. We met more than 10 years ago while London’s supper club scene was growing, as each other’s sous chefs/waiters/hungry guests. Today, she remains one of those I turn to regularly for advice – kitchen or life. Over lockdown, Cherry started making the most beautiful Swiss rolls – soft sponge cakes filled with whipped cream and strawberries, matcha sponges rolled with matcha custard cream, even delightfully purple ube ones. I’m not the most frequent baker, but spurred on by Cherry’s lockdown bakes and seemingly everyone’s banana breads, I made this pandan Swiss roll. I’ve adapted Cherry’s perfect Swiss roll recipe with a smidge of pandan paste for that gorgeous green colour and fragrance, and filled it with cream and kaya (pandan coconut jam). You could squeeze pandan juice from fresh leaves, but in this case, I’ve found the ready-made extract to be not just easier, but a closer match to the pandan Swiss rolls of my childhood.’
And about the kaya jam: ‘You can make this up to a week in advance, not just to spread on toast but for myriad puddings. Traditional kaya is made by stirring whole eggs, coconut milk, sugar and pandan over very low heat for hours, until the mixture cooks and curdles. I shortcut this by using just egg yolks, much like you would when making lemon curd. The result is richer and smoother and, best of all, ready in minutes. (Makes 2 x 200ml jars)’.
Ingredients
Metric
Imperial
Quick Kaya, aka Pandan Coconut Jam of Dreams
- 4 pandan leaves, cut into 3 cm pieces
- 200ml of coconut milk
- 100g of caster sugar
- 4 free-range egg yolks, whisked with a large pinch of salt
Sponge
- 4 large free-range eggs, separated
- 80g of caster sugar, divided
- 1/4 tsp pandan extract paste
- 2 tbsp of whole milk
- 1 pinch of fine sea salt
- 2 tbsp of vegetable oil
- 50g of plain flour
- 1 tbsp of cornflour
Filling
- 150ml of double cream, chilled
- 1 1/2 tbsp of gula melaka, (coconut palm sugar), or light brown sugar
- 1/2 jar of kaya, (optional)
- icing sugar, for dusting
- coconut flakes, or fruit, to serve (optional)
Equipment
- 33 x 23 cm (13 x 9 in) Swiss roll baking tray
- Electric hand whisk
Method
Blend the pandan leaves with half the coconut milk in a blender, then strain through a sieve to extract the green pandan juices. I like to mash the mixture in the sieve with the back of a spoon to make sure I squeeze every bit of flavour out before discarding the solids
- 4 pandan leaves, cut into 3 cm pieces
- 200ml of coconut milk
In a small saucepan set over medium heat, combine the pandan juice with the remaining coconut milk and the sugar and stir until dissolved. When the pandan is cooked, you’ll see it turn brighter into a beautiful jade-green colour
- 100g of caster sugar
In a separate large bowl, beat the egg yolks. Slowly add a third of the pandan coconut milk into the bowl to temper the eggs, whisking all the time. Now pour the tempered egg mixture into the remaining coconut milk in the saucepan
Cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring constantly until the mixture has thickened and coats the back of your spatula. Season with a pinch of salt, to taste. Then turn the heat down low and continue stirring until it gets to the consistency of thick custard. Transfer to jars – it will continue to thicken as it cools. Kaya is good for a week in the fridge, though I suspect you’ll be finishing it off in days, with a spoon
Line a 33 x 23 cm (13 x 9 in) Swiss roll baking tray with baking parchment (parchment paper) and preheat the oven to 180°C/160°C fan/350°F/gas mark 4
Separate the eggs between two medium bowls and add 40 g of sugar to each. Set the bowl with the yolks over hot water and beat with a whisk until doubled in size, pale and fluffy
- 4 large free-range eggs, separated
- 80g of caster sugar, divided
Stir the pandan paste into the milk to dilute
- 1/4 tsp pandan extract paste
- 2 tbsp of whole milk
Add the pandan milk, salt and oil to the bowl, sift the flours over, then whisk together until smooth
- 1 pinch of fine sea salt
- 2 tbsp of vegetable oil
- 50g of plain flour
- 1 tbsp of cornflour
As for the second bowl with the egg whites, whip into soft peaks using a hand whisk or electric beaters. Go slow if using electric beaters so you don’t over whip!
Gently fold the egg whites into the first bowl with a spatula, being careful to keep as much air as possible in the mixture. Start by spooning in a big dollop of the egg whites to loosen the mixture, then fold in the rest
Pour the batter evenly into the baking tray, then lift and drop the tray onto the counter a couple of times to get rid of any air bubbles. Bake for 15–18 minutes until springy and dry to the touch and light golden
When the sponge is ready, lift the edges of the baking parchment to transfer it onto a cooling rack. Five minutes later, when the cake has cooled slightly but is still warm to the touch, cover with a fresh sheet of baking parchment, and flip so the browned side is facing down. Peel the old baking parchment away and trim the edges of the sponge with a small bread knife to neaten
With the short edge of the sponge facing you, roll into a log. Leave it to cool completely, uncovered and rolled up like this, as this helps to prevent cracks later
Meanwhile, in a chilled mixing bowl, whip the cream until it starts to form soft peaks
- 150ml of double cream, chilled
Add the sugar and keep whipping until you get stiff peaks and the cream doesn’t flop over any more
- 1 1/2 tbsp of gula melaka, (coconut sugar), or light brown sugar
To assemble, unroll the sponge, spread an even layer of the kaya (if using) onto the cake, followed by the whipped cream. Roll again into a tight log, using the baking parchment underneath to wrap the cake up and twist the ends of the parchment to seal. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours to set
- 1/2 jar of kaya, (optional)
To serve, unwrap and cut off the two ends of the roll before slicing it into rounds. You can finish this with a dusting of icing sugar, coconut flakes or fruit but it’s delicious as is
- icing sugar, for dusting
- coconut flakes, or fruit, to serve (optional)
Get in touch
Please sign in or register to send a comment to Great British Chefs.
You may also like
SITES
