Venison is given a subtle sweetness by being cured in treacle in this wonderful recipe from Jozef Rogulski. With girolles, kale and an out-of-this-world pommes purée made with brown butter on the side, it's a stunning way to serve such a fantastic cut of meat. The sauce, poured tableside, brings everything together.
Begin by curing the venison. Mix the water and treacle together in a bowl then add the venison. Cover and leave to cure in the fridge for a minimum of 4 hours
Meanwhile, make the sauce. Preheat an oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. Place the venison bones on a tray and roast in the oven for 30–40 minutes until golden. In the meantime, place a large pan over a medium heat with a splash of sunflower oil. Add the onion, carrot, celery, tomatoes and garlic and cook over a medium heat with regular stirring until nice and caramelised
Add the red wine and reduce until sticky and coating the vegetables, then add the roasted bones, thyme and veal stock. Bring to the boil then reduce the heat and simmer for 40 minutes, skimming regularly. After 40 minutes pass the stock through a sieve into a new pan and put back on the stove to reduce further until it coats the back of a spoon or holds a pooling consistency on a plate. Season and set aside to reheat before serving
To make the pommes purée, dice the butter and place it into a medium saucepan over a medium heat and stir continuously. The butter will start to foam and then brown. Once the butter is nutty and browned, pass through a sieve into a bowl and chill
Cook the potatoes in salted boiling water for 10–15 minutes until soft, then drain and pass through a potato ricer whilst still hot. Return the potatoes to a clean pan over the heat and fold through the chilled brown butter. Once combined, fold through the milk whilst beating the potato until you have a nice smooth consistency. Taste and season, then keep warm place
Preheat the oven to 205°C/185°C fan/gas mark 6. Remove the venison from the cure and pat dry with a paper towel. Season with salt and pepper and place a frying pan over a high heat with a splash of vegetable oil. Add the venison and sear on each side, then transfer to the oven and cook for 4 minutes. Rest for 5 minutes in a warm place before carving
Meanwhile, gently reheat the sauce. Blanch the kale leaves in salted boiling water for 20 seconds, then plunge into iced water. Place a large frying pan over a medium heat and add the butter and prepped girolles with a pinch of salt. Cook for a couple of minutes then add the kale leaves for the last few seconds to reheat
To serve, add a neat spoonful of pommes purée to one side of the plate and the carved venison beside it. Garnish with the kale, blackberries and girolles, sprinkling a little parsley over them. Serve the dish at the table with the sauce on the side
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